Need Pen Turning Advice

Re: Need Penb TUring Advice

Gary Evans, Tallassee, TN

>Hi Bart,

I can answer the first one.

First, cut a 1/2"x1/2" rabbet on the edge of a board and use that as a hold down to keep your fingers as far from the blade as possible.

Second, always let the blade come to a stop before raising it back up. This will help to counteract the tendency of the cut-off to go flying.

I don't turn many pens, so I'll leave the rest to more experienced heads.

Gary

A Few Ideas

Jim Shaver, Oakville Ontario

>Hi Bart,

I only cut on my band saw, so much safer. I use a small sled I made for this on my bandsaw.

I Use an awl to score a centre point for drilling my blanks and I use a small drill press vise. I mount the blank in the vise and touch the drill to the side to make the blank parallel to the drill bit, tighten it down and away I go, works all the time for me.

People have written books on finishing pens...easiest and quickest way is probably a friction polish before you thnk about other finishes.

Take care,

Jim

Re: Need Pen Turning Advice

Fred in NC

>Some answers:

1) I find cutting the pen blanks to length on my compound miter saw a bit nerve wracking. I USE MY BANDSAW WITH A MITER GAUGE.

2) Do I need to invest 40 bucks for one of those center drilling vises, or is there a cheaper and also effect way. THERE ARE OTHER WAYS, a machinist vise that has a "V" on one of the jaws is an alternative.

3) What is you preferred method for pen finishing. MINE IS MINWAX POLYCRYLIC.

4) For sanding on the lathe, what is your preferred sanding medium? REGULAR SANDPAPER to 320, and then wet/dry to 2000.

Re: Need Penb TUring Advice *LINK*

Russ Fairfield

>All of your questions are covered on my website article on making pens. Several options for drilling pen blanks are shown. Give it a look, and then ask again if there are more questions.


Pencrafting instructions.

My take on your question

Dominic Greco in Richboro PA

>Bart,

You wrote:

"3) What is you preferred method for pen finishing. I tried the Hut wax bars and they see okay, but I know that there are may other (and probably better) ways."

I love CA glue since it's an almost indestructible finish. But it takes a long time to apply. I have switched to applying PSI's friction Lacquer Sealer and I'm really satisfied with the results.

"4) For sanding on the lathe, what is your preferred sanding medium? Cloth backed sand paper, abralon, abranet, others?

I sand from 150 all the way up to 600 grit. For a really superior surface, I have two words for you my friend, "Micro Mesh". I bought the sample pack that gives you grits from 1500 to 12,000. You wouldn't believe how smooth a finish you get until you try it.

I highly recommend getting a copy of "Turning Pens and Pencils" by Rex Birmingham and Kip Christensen. Many of your questions are answered in the text. Along with tons of photos, this book has plans for making shop built accessories like a pen cutting sled for your bandsaw, a drilling jig, and other cool items.

I also recommend checking out penturner.org. Scott Greaves recommended this site to me. So I'm passing the favor along to you. It's a fantastic resource.

See ya around,

Dominic

Re: My take on your question

Ron in Drums PA

>DOM WROTE:

I love CA glue since it's an almost indestructible finish. But it takes a long time to apply. I have switched to applying PSI's friction Lacquer Sealer and I'm really satisfied with the results.

RON'S QUESTION

Boy that sentence surprised me.

I've only tried CA once as a finish, so I'm not expert. Why does it take a longer time to apply? I would have quessed CA takes about the same if not faster than lacquer sealer?

Hi Ron

Dominic Greco at home in Richboro, PA

>Ron,

I've been turning pens only since last year at this time. So I really can't speak as a voice of experience. CA Glue was my first "serious" finish for pens after I gave up on shellac based friction polish (it dulls in a very short time).

When I say it takes a "long time" to apply a CA glue finish, I mean it takes long to build up the multiple coats for the regimen I use.

Maybe this will explain: My favorite method for applying a CA glue finish is based on an article written by Scott Greaves. I've tried others but have found this to be the most fool proof (spoken as a true "fool" who has manged to mess up more pens with CA glue than he'd care to mention!)

After sanding to 400 grit, you spread some BLO on the pen blank and "pop the grain". Then, using a finger cot (looks like a little rubber condom for your finger. You can get them from medical supply houses.), you drop thin CA glue on the blank and spread it with your "protected" finger. Smooth it out, then do it a couple more times to build a base. Do the same with medium, then thick, then one coat of thin CA. Sand, from 300 to 12000 and you get a super smooth, clear coat that is just awesome to see!

On the advise from several pen turners I "turned" to lacquer based sanding sealer. I found it to be a much easier (to my mind at least) and less costly alternative to a CA glue finish. Mylands sells their version but I use PSI's cause I can get it more readily.

Applying the lacquer sealer is simple, I sand to 600, apply the sealer while the lathe is running and allow it to harden/dry for 10 minutes. While it's doing this, I usually work on my other lathe so I have (2) pens going at once. After it hardens, I lightly sand with micro mesh to 12000 and buff. One coat of Renaissance wax does the trick to keep it shiny.

It's a much more forgiving finish, more consistent, and less likely for me to "sand through" as with CA glue. I found that it takes me about 20 minutes to CA glue finish a pen as opposed to 10 minutes (without the wait for drying) as with lacquer sealer.

But this is not to say that I have totally given up on CA glue finish. On open grained woods like Zebrawood, or punky woods it's perfect.

(Sorry to be so long winded)

See ya around,

Dominic

Re: Need Penb TUring Advice

Capt Skip

>I don't turn many pens and didn't want to invest the $40 either for the drill guide. I took my hand screw clamp and added a pair of V notches which hold the pen blank vertical. The clamp still works for everything else too.

Re: Need Pen Turning Advice

Don Thompson - Cutler Ridge, Florida

>I am not an expert pen turner, but as others have recommended, a band saw is a lot safer to make small cuts than the cross-cut saw.

If you do not have a band saw, a fine-toothed hand saw will do fine.