pen tube gluing

Re: pen tube gluing

Fred in NC

>I had the same problem. I tried medium CA, and had a few blowouts. Now I am using 5 min epoxy with good results. Remember to scuff the tubes with some sandpaper before you glue them in.

Re: pen tube gluing

mike822

>Before and after you sand down the tube be sure to clean them of any dirt or oil. They will take the glue lots better--I use a glue simular to Gorilla but not as costly--I get it from HD next to the Gorrilla. Mike

Nothing special...

Peter Teubel

>If I'm not in a hurry, I simply use Titebond (I,II,III...whatever I get when I reach for it on the shelf). With properly scuffed brass, it holds as well as anything else I've tried.

Re: pen tube gluing

John K Jordan

>>I don't know if I am too shy with the glue...

If you are rushing because of fear of the CA glue setting up to rapidly, a tip I read somewhere helps: put the blanks in the freezer for a while before glueing. This gives a longer set time, especially helpful for woods that naturally accelerate the reaction.

JKJ in East TN

Re: pen tube gluing

Jennifer@Indy.USA

>Hi Eric,

I use a medium CA glue. I put a pretty good amount on my tubes before inserting them, but I do scuff my tubes with 60 grit paper. I put a piece of the paper on a sanding block and then hold the sanding block, paper up, in my bench vise and scuff the tubes that way. It's easier on my fingers and seems to go faster. I use to get blisters on my thumbs before I started scuffing this method, especially if I'm doing a lot of kits. Some people say the 60 grit is overkill but I have never had a tube come lose and I credit it to that I suppose.

Good luck.

Jennifer

Re: pen tube gluing

RonZ

>Do check and make sure your drill bit isn't making too large of a hole. I use the bullet tip bits and find them to be the best [available at Packards]. I sand my tubes with 120 grit paper. I'm worried that a lower grit might score the tube too much and weaken the tube. I wrap the 2"x4" piece of paper around the tube and twist back and forth. I use Starbond CA gel and apply a bead 1/3 from the top and twist the tube as I apply. I then insert the tube in the side opposite the center I have marked up to the end of the glue and twist back and forth and removethe tube and insert into the center mark and and make sure the tube is flush. If I'm teaching and want it to dry in a hurry, I'll spray accelerator at each end. Works for me.

Re: pen tube gluing

Dick Hines

>I use thick CA. After drilling holes I shoot some thick CA inthe hole and then spread some on the tubes. The thick glue seems to give e more time o insert the tube.

I sand the tubs on the lathe. Faster and easier on the fingers than doing it hand.

Re: pen tube gluing

Tom Mullane

>If I am only doing one pen or maybe 2 I will use thick CA... if I am doing a production run, I will use 90 min epoxy so I don't have to keep mixing the 5 min stuff...

As for sanding the tubes, definately a must do.. it gives the glue something to bite... since I normally do a bunch (10 or more) of pens at a time, I actually sand with my palm sander with 60 or 80 grit paper.. I have a dowel tapered to hold the tubes, hold the palm sander upside down and just rub the tubes on the turned on sander.. real quick and easy... I gave up using poly glue after coming back into the shop one morning and finding out that the expansion of the glue pushed the tubes partially out of 6 blanks.. really ticked me off.. LOL...

Re: pen tube gluing

Ron in Drums PA

>I've made my first pens this weekend. I sanded the tubes by inserting them into a cordless drill, one quite spin, flip it around,spin the tube again and I'm done. I used 120 grit.

Re: pen tube gluing

Brad Vietje

>Here's a real fast way to sand the tubes (mentioned by Dick, I think):

1. Set up your mandrel, use only a few inches of it if it's an adjustable one. Get the tailstock out of the way.

2. Put the tube over the end of the mandrel, about 1/2" or so, and hold the other end lightly, with a finger. Apply just enough side pressure to keep it from sliding further onto the mandrel.

3. Turn on lathe, and sweep a piece of 150 or so across the tube, again applying a little side pressure to keep the tube spinning -- done.

4. Keeping the lathe running, do a bunch more -- couldn't be much faster than that.

Safe Spinning,

Brad Vietje

Thetford, VT

Re: pen tube gluing

Mike-in-Michigan

>I also sand my tubes, but I have a little delta 1" x 42" belt sander so I just put the tubes on a phillips screw driver -- sand 3 @ a time. Just a couple quick swipes and they are done. I often do 2-300 at a time since I separate out my kits when I buy them and keep all the tubes together but sorted for length. I sand a bunch and put them in a plastic bag.

I also use CA (med or thick gap filing) if I doing just a few units, but I try to drill/glue up 50-75 sets at a time so I normally will use Elmers Poly glue (like gorilla). I get an occasional failure with CA (1 in 100 or so) but have never had one with poly glue even in oily stuff. I hate mixing it up so I don't use epoxy.

I recommend you start standing the tubes, if you are using CA use thick or thick gap filling.

If you are doing a bunch of glue up then go with Poly glue and wait the 24 hours.. you can also put a swipe of water in the blank holes with a qtip before you put in the poly glue, it will cure quicker that way.

Re: pen tube gluing

Eric Kuehne

>Thanks, one and all (and Eagle, whose e-mail I couldn't reply to) for the great advice. I realized the necessity of sanding on my own pretty quickly but never put much thought into a technique. Great ideas! I'll be more generous with my CA.

Eric (Who can't wait to try out the new ideas but HAS to finish his taxes tonight.I will not make the midnight on the 15th this year. I swear it!)

Re: pen tube gluing

Dick Hines

>When I sand the tubes I put the bushings on the mandrel just like I was goint to turn a pen. I do suggest useing a old set of bushings though.