>can someone describe a safe way to cut logs on a bandsaw...I have a Grizzly saw, and had a problem cutting a small log, wet, and log rolled, blade bent, and was ugly real fast...can you make a sled to hold the log from rolling..looking for advice....love turning, and love my fingers...Dennis
>Just finished looking at www.turningwood.com and they have a link in their How-To section on a log cutting sled for the bandsaw. It looks like a real good sled, even if it does come from a crappy magazine (American Woodworker - once great doesn't help current state - personal opinion). Anyway, here is the link they have posted:
>Sled - definitely. I watched a demonstration on green turning before I caught the "bug". The demonstrator had a very nice log sled for cross-cut and a very interesting one for doing the bowl blanks. After he found the center and used an autopunch, he had a "rotating" circle cutting jig with a spike. Wish I had thought to ask for plans.
I use two jigs. One is a sled that has a V to hold the log. This lets me cut slices off the end grain side.
The other is a flat circle that put bowl blanks on. If the bowl blank doesn't sit on the table flat the blade will pull it down forcefully, pinch your fingers and kink the blade. I place the wood on scrap piece of plywood and then put wedges under the gaps so the blade can't pull it down. If need be I hot glue them in place. I cut the wedges from scrap 2x4's.
I lied. I have had another jig. I don't have it now because I changed bandsaws and just haven't needed to build another one yet. This one is an L shaped jig that I clamp the log to when I want to make boards from the log. Sometimes I screw the log to it, and other times I rig up a bar clamp to hold the wood. I use a chalk line to mark the lines on the log and then just follow them. If my blade is running really true i'll use this jig against the fence.
With these 3 jigs you can cut up green wood very safely.
Here's the one I use. Made from long reach pipe clamps and based on a tip in FWW. A drywall screw through the tip of the clamp makes sure it doesn't slip and the log rides on a piece of sacrificial plywood.
>the plywood bottom is just a small piece for the log to ride on?...do you have plans for your rig or is it from a woodworking magazine...that looks like what I need to cut up blanks...looks simple...Dennis
>Another pipe clamp remedy. Took about 15 minutes to build. The white things holding the pipe clamp to the board are actually aluminum, and sold by Jorgensen/Pony, the pipe clamp company.
Yep, the log rides on the plywood bottom which is temporarily (dry wall screws) attached to the rabbit at the bottom edge of the sled. The plywood gets cut as well as the log. No plans--just wing it and size to cut the largest log you can lift and slide back and forth on the fence. As you get past the larger part of the log, the bearing point on the plywood will change and you will have to make slight adjustments each cut if you want parallel cuts. I usually rough cut, joint one side and plane the piece parallel so the slight angle differences created as the log gets smaller don't make much difference.