technique question

Re: technique question

Wally Dickerman in Az.

>Form comes first! The only way you can get the form you want in a bowl is to turn the outside first.

Wally

Re: technique question

JL

>Ken,

Shape the outside first and define your form. Good things to use - Screw chuck; 4 jaw chuck with "woodworm" screw - with these you can drill a relatively shallow hole in the "top" of the blank and "screw" the top of the blank onto the chuck. You then shape your outside and mostly finish it. Reverse and do the inside

Faceplate - mount waste block, glue blank to block (let glue dry thoroughly), define outside, then do the inside.

Most important rule - never, never make the inside bigger than the outside - DAMHIKT.

Re: technique question

John Lucas

>I always start my bowls between centers unless it's a production run of a certain shape. If I start between centers I can move one or both centers around to make the figure or a defect more or less prominent.

For Natural edge bowls it lets you readjust the centers to get the high ends of the bark to be the same height and if you want the low sides can be balanced to be the same height.

If I use a screw center I'm stuck with that position. That's fine for production bowls because I true everything up on the bandsaw before I start.

Turn short tenon on the bottom for your chuck or if you are using a faceplate turn a rebate to the size of the faceplate so it will align properly. If you turn a tenon for the chuck make the tenon shorter than your jaws and square up the shoulder of the tenon so the wood will sit flat on top of the chuck jaws. This helps it run true and also ads a lot of strength.

Re: technique question

John Trant (Baltimore/DC area)

>In faceplate orientation, shape the outside by working from the base towards the rim. Reverse and hollow the interior from the rim to the center. In spindle orientation, shape the outside from the rim to the base and hollow out from the center to the rim.

John

Re: technique question

ken chase

>That's what I'm talkin bout.

This way, If I'm not mistaken, there

is no need to remove the piece until

completion with only the base of the bowl

to clean up.

Thanks

Re: technique question

Brad Vietje

>Ken,

Some people make bowls on a faceplate with a single faceplate mounting, but most people do it with two mountings. There are two real good reasons for this: 1 -- you have better access to the foot of the bowl, and 2 -- you can cut "with the grain" to get the smoothest cut off the tool.

First the screws go into the interior waste wood of the bowl, at the top, and the outside of the bowl is turned, leaving extra wood for mounting near the foot. Cut in directions as explained above in another post. The second mounting, from the foot, allows you to turn away the inside of the bowl. Then, to clean up the foot and remove waste wood with screw holes, I would turn the bowl between centers while driving it with a friction chuck (I use disks of various sizes attached to a screw chuck or faceplate). You remove as much as you dare around the live cebter at the foot, then carve and sand off the little nub where the tail center left an impression.

So in the end, you're really mounting the bowl 3 times if you start on a faceplate, and 4 times if you do as John (and I) do, and start the bowl between centers to get the best orientation of figure, etc... before the first faceplate mounting.

Safe Spinning,

Brad Vietje

Thetford, VT