>I have been just using the brown Hut stick and then the White sort of colored stick and getting a pretty fair finish. But I wanted a better shine (not a glassy shine) with a richer, deeper look so I bought the Hut Friction Polish (liquid). One source said put in on BEFORE the Hut sticks and another said AFTER. I found it works pretty good applying it after but wanted opinions on getting the Polish to work the best. Maybe I should use a stain before the Polish and not the Sticks at all if I want the pen a tad darker in color (like on Mahogany). Thanks.
>I personally don't like any of the Hut products. I started using the sticks and went on to the friction polish. IMHO use Myland's sanding sealer, friction polish and carnauba wax to seal it off. The only thing I have heard that's close to this is Shelawax from Australia [via Bonnie Klein] but I haven't checked it out myself.
>I recently bought a small sample size bottle of the Shellawax and I like the smooth finish. I've also used the HUT sticks for small bottle stoppers. I am waiting for an order of Mylands sanding sealer and polish to be delivered, hopefully today so I can't compare yet. I have noticed some of the itemsI've seen posted that were finished with the Mylands and was impressed enough to order it.
If when it arrives I'll finish a couple small pieces with HUT, Mylands, and Shellawax if there's an interest.
>I'm waiting for my visit to the US in June to pick some Shellewax up. I had to become the importer here in Israel in order to get the Mylands. =o) No one will ship flammables.
>I have just tried the Myland 3 step process (Sealer, French Polish and Caruba wax) and it looks fantastic!! FAR better than the Hut wax sticks or even the Hut Friction Polish. I'm sold personally. A good source (which someone else recommended) is www.woodturningz.com Nice guys and very helpful also. Great prices on pen supplies.
>I the thread earlier last week I said I'd do comparison and post the photos of some bottlestoppers finished with HUT sticks, Mylands, and Shellawax. I turned the pieces and finished them last night. The difference is so subtle I don't believe my photo setup will let it show.
My conclusion from this small sampling. All pieces were finished to 12,000 micromesh then the finishes applied as the packaging stated.
All pieces were very smooth and feel the same to touch. The glossiest finishes in decending order are Mylands, HUT, and last was Shellawax. The difference is almost impossible to see. All the wood was cherry.
>The Shellawax is one step so I guess that would be the easiest. But the Mylands was only two quick steps.That's the oneI'll probably use for most things I want this type of finish on.
The HUT sticks are the leasy messy since there's no odor or liquid to deal with.
Like so much other stuff I guess it just comes down to personal preference. I was surprised the Shellawax didn't fair better. When I was using it without comparing I thought it was the finest finish. If I notice anything different I'll post it in the future.
I thought this was interesting since the results were different than I expected.
>Shellac (as in Shellawax, etc.) is not very durable because it reacts with water, alcohol, and your hand's moisture and acids. Myland's is lacquer based and more durable.
>??? I thought shellac was fairly resistant to water and even to alcohol in low concentrations. For example, note this guy's shellac/alcohol demonstration: http://www.johnjacobmickley.net/Shop%20Pages/Shellac%20Repair.htm
BTW, concerning all these fancy "new" finshes: I noticed this interesting bit of history on woodturnings with friction polish, from http://www.homesteadfinishing.com/htdocs/shellac.htm :
The first use of shellac as a protective coating appears as early as 1590 in a work by an English writer who was sent to India to observe the country and its people. Commenting on a procedure for applying lac to wood still on the lathe he writes "they take a peece of Lac of what colour they will, and as they turne it when it commeth to his fashion they spread the Lac upon the whole peece of woode which presently, with the heat of the turning (melteth the waxe) so that it entreth into the crestes and cleaveth unto it, about the thicknesse of a man's naile: then they burnish it (over) with a broad straw or dry Rushes so (cunningly) that all the woode is covered withall, and it shineth like glasse, most pleasant to behold, and continueth as long as the woode being well looked unto: in this sort they cover all kinde of household stuffe in India".* ( It's interesting that many wood turners still finish this same way today.) * From "Shellac; its production, manufacture, chemistry analysis, commerce and uses." London, Sir I. Pitman & Sons, ltd., 1935 pg. 3.
Now where do I find dry Rushes and a supply of cunning?
>I would rather have a pen finished in lacquer or acrylic in my pocket, very especially in the summer.
For furniture, definitely! Nothing beats a well done French polish. I have refinished boxes and other small items that were done with shellac with very good results. DNA takes away all the dirt (after cleaning properly) and the new coats blend with the old.
My point, and I am not trying to be controversial, is that a pen is going to be handled quite a bit. A shellac friction polish will be a temporary finish at best, and will eventually be replaced by the natural patina from handling.
I have been using MinWax PolyCrylic with great success. I have monitored several pens that were finished this way for well over 2 years. That includes pens that are carried in a purse, and pens that are carried in a pocket and used daily. The finish is very durable. A little wax makes them look like new.
