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Knowledge You Can Build On — Est. 1998

Hollowing tool

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Hollowing tool

#1

Hollowing tool

Don Henthorn

>Pictured below is the hollowing tool I made for small forms. I tried instant glue for the tip

and it worked for nearly all the form I was doing, but came off near the end. I have to

confess that the surface I glued it too was far from perfect. I have reground the surface

and reglued the tip to try on the next form. I am really happy with the tool. I used 5/16"

drill rod and bent it with a Mapp gas torch. Stuck a 3/4" pipe nipple into a 2" X 4" and a

piece of 1/2" threaded rod about 1 1/2" from the pipe as the jig for making the first bend.

The end bend was made by puttin a 7/8" 3/8" drive socket on the end of the 3/4" pipe and

inserted the red hot end of the rod into the 3/8" square and pulling it down. Worked like a

champ. For the handle I turned down a four inch piece of broom handle for a snug fit

inside a 3/4" pipe, bored a 5/16" hole through the piece and then epoxied the tool tang into

the broom handle and epoxied the broom handle into the pipe. It is a real solid tool and

works great. Thanks for looking.





Re: Hollowing tool

#2

ps

Don Henthorn

>If the glue doesn't work I will silver solder the tip in place.

Re: Hollowing tool

#3

Re: ps

John Lucas

>Don

I thought you were going to use thicker rod for the support. Glue would work fine if you have the HSS inserted into a hole. To hold it on the tip of the 5/16 bar like you have in the photo you willhave to silver solder or brase it in place. John

Re: Hollowing tool

#4

Re: Hollowing tool *LINK*

Ken from SW WI

>Don, you might try soft solder--a bit easier to use, and holds just as well as silver solder.

When I make one of these for myself, I'll put a nice wood handle on it--thanks for putting the idea into my head.

I make a tool ferrule with setscrew, for 3/8" shafts--glue into a 1/2" hole in the end of your handle:


Handle Insert with Setscrew Hole

Re: Hollowing tool

#5

Re: Hollowing tool

Don Henthorn

>I was going to turn a nice wooden handle for it but just happened to pick up a short length of 3/4" pipe and the thought struck me that with that much heft in the handle there would be a lot less vibration and movement if I used that rather than wood. I have used it and I was right. Glad I didn't make the wood handle now.

Thanks for the suggestion about regular solder. I am going to give that a try since I have plenty of that and only a couple inches of brazing wire and no silver solder.

Re: Hollowing tool

#6

Re: Hollowing tool

Ken from SW WI

>Good point on handle weight, that always helps.

I have some lead shot I purchased for turned paperweights, might fill a wooden handle with it. I just don't like metal handles, they get really COLD in the winter!

Re: Hollowing tool

#7

Re: Hollowing tool

John Lucas

>All good sugestions. I'm make one more. For small hollowing tools use fairly good sized handles. Your hands will tire out less and it will be less likely to cause Carpel Tunnel. Several of mine are just a little less than 1" and my arms tire out a lot with these and not the ones that are 1 1/4 or 1 1/2

Re: Hollowing tool

#8

Re: Hollowing tool

John K Jordan

>>Thanks for the suggestion about regular solder.

If by "regular solder" you mean the tin alloys rosin core solder meant for electronics, it is not intended work with steel.

Silver solders with a relatively low melting point is sometimes called "soft" solder.

If you don't have the right silver solder and/or torch, any welding shop should be able to sliver solder/braze a tip like that for a few bucks or for free. Home Depot carried silver solder the last time I looked.

JKJ in East TN

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