Knowledge You Can Build On — Est. 1998
Chainsaw sharpening
Rick in Colgate, Wi
>I'm going to dedicate one of my chainsaw's for ripping logs, mostly for turning blanks, and am wondering what grind angle works best for that purpose. Also, can I just re-grind an old chain or should I get a new one.
In the past I've always just sharpened my chains with a hand held file and am considering getting a bar mounted file guide. Does anyone have any experience with those?
Thanks, and have a Happy Easter!
Re: Chainsaw sharpening
Pete in Holland MI
>I've been recently using my Dremel tool with the right size grinding stone. About 35 degrees is pretty generic. Don't forget to take the top of the rakers off a few thousandths each time you sharpen. Too tall, and the chain doesn't bite. Take off too much, and the saw won't have enough power to drive the chain.
2 ways to rip...
tdaniel
>If you stand a log on the end and try cut it in two that is a totally different cut than when laying it down to rip. Assuming you are going to cut with the log laying down, the best chain would be a skip tooth. Never use any chain unless at least 2 links are cutting at all times. Tilt the saw so that it is not parrallel to the growth rings. Never try to cut limbs or vines witha skip-tooth chain as only one link will be in contact and serious kick-backs WILL result. Angle of grind will depend on the wood but an all purpose grind should be ok. You might gain a little speed with a different grind but it will be minimal. As far as sharpening goes, I like the Husky guide that clips over the chain. The directions that come with it are worthless so get someone to show you the proper way to use it.
TD
Re: Chainsaw sharpening *LINK*
Jim DeLaney, Austintown, Ohio
>Rick,
Can't help you with the rip chain angles, but for a sharpening guide, I really like the one that Lee Valley has. It's totaly adjustable for angle, so it should work nicely for your purposes.
Re: Chainsaw sharpening
John K Jordan
>>Don't forget to take the top of the rakers
>off a few thousandths each time you sharpen.
You can buy a very inexpensive guage that will take out the guesswork. I got mine from the Stihl dealer. BTW, using the guage I find I only have to file those after sharpening the chain numerous times.
JKJ in East TN
Re: Chainsaw sharpening
Terry Quiram
>Rick
The guy I bought my saw from used to compete professionally. When I told him I wanted a ripping chain he said to gradually change the angle from 30 to 20 degrees. Use a ripper with caution.
Terry
Re: Chainsaw sharpening
Bruce in N.B. Canada
>Rick try this web site www.granberg.com , they market special chain for ripping. I have never tried one, there chain would no doubt have the teeth ground to the proper angles. Good Luck
Bruce in N.B. Canada
Not necessarily.....
tdaniel
>Many ripchains are for the Alaskan type lumber mills which rip as if the log were standing on the end and you are cutting down thru it; if you lay the log down and rip lengthwise (which is much faster/easier) then these chains are the wrong ones for the job.
TD
Re: NO! NO! NO!
Mark Mandell - Gone Round In Jersey
>Granberg chain MUST NEVER BE USED IN A FREEHAND SAW!! It is designed for use ONLY in a Granberg / Alaska-style mill where the saw is locked into a mill carriage frame.
This is very different from skip-tooth chain which is sometimes referred to as "rip chain", but can be safely used to do rip cuts by persons who have experience with the chain and the cut.
DO NOT EVER USE GRANBERG CHAIN OUTSIDE OF A MILL CARRIAGE.
