Knowledge You Can Build On — Est. 1998
buffing question
jared
>remove 1 for email
HEllo: I seem to remember someone mentioned on this board once about making some homemade buffing wheels, similar to the beal bowl buffs. I cant seem to remember just how it was done or what they were made out of but I think it was done by just cutting out a number of circles of an old bed sheet or something like that. Does anyone have any insight into this? Thanks in advance Jared
Re: buffing question
Ruth in S.Cal
>Jared, I don't remember that post, but there is a link in the articles here on WC about how to make one's own Beale style buffing system. I would think that because you can get the wheels quite cheaply (Harbor Freight)that cutting up material would be a huge waste of time. The article describes how to use a threaded rod......I haven't done it myself yet but will soon.
Ruth
Re: buffing question
Arch
>Jared, the threaded rod and H.F. wheels Ruth suggested work for me. Spinning the final wax buffer slowly will prevent centrifugal hardening and keep it soft although probably not the same as the Beall. Instead of carnauba I use Minwax finishing wax or more often, none at all.
IIRC, Russ Fairfield suggested using long nap painting rollers on allthread instead of buffing wheels for certain applications. I haven't tried them yet, but if Russ suggested it, it'll work.
Paint roller buffing
Fred in NC
>I followed Russ Fairfield's suggestion.
Buffing mandrels
Fred in NC
>A friend made these for me in his CNC lathe, after my rough wood prototype (which worked very well, incidentally!).
The material is UHMW poly, and the taper is a # 2 Morse, which fits directly in the spindle.
I use a 3/4" wool nap paint roller for final buffing with carnauba.
Re: Buffing mandrels
EagleS.C.
>I have also made Freds buffer which came from Russ.
I turned the ends out of some teak scrap wood.
To make the M2 end I used a gauge block out of Corian.Worked like a charm!
A lot cheaper than the Bealle.
Make sure you use lambs wool rollers and not synthetic.
I have also read on another forum where Russ made his own using the method you describe.
I was going to do that but this seemed a lot easier.
I stll plan to try the round fabric discs using old denim and using them for arbors that fit on a hand held drill.
More info?
Tony - Memphis
>Is there somewhere I can read more about this? I just made a rattle via Nick Cook's article and I put walnut oil and then wax. Its satin and I'd like it to be a little more shiny.
Tony
Re: More info?
EagleS.C.
>Tony, tried sending you an e-mail. keeps getting bounced.
Here's the link *LINK*
Garrett in Victoria
>
Beale-style system
Eagle, Could You Elaborate...
Clem Wixted, Jonesboro, AR
>... a litte more on your statement:
I turned the ends out of some teak scrap wood.
To make the M2 end I used a gauge block out of Corian.Worked like a charm!
Thanks,
Clem
Morse tapers *LINK*
Fred in NC
>I have turned Morse tapers by hand. It is just a matter of accurate measurement. I use a machinist's caliper to measure the taper at both ends. It is not necessary to make the taper as long as the usual metal tapers. A short or 'stubby' taper is all that is needed. I use an 80 grit tool to finish leveling it. (80 grit sandpaper glued to a piece of plywood).
Another and more elegant solution is to buy a Morse taper with threads for about $8, such as the one in the link.
Morse taper with outside threads
