!@#$@%$! stupid lathe

Re: !@#$@%$! stupid lathe

John Lucas

>Carol

I did exactly the same thing with a woodslicer blade. I now use cheaper blades for cutting green wood. I almost always use a carriage of some sort to hole the wood. This keeps it from rolling. That time I didn't use it and it grabbed the blade. $30 bucks down the drain.

I use a V shaped block to hold the wood and feed it through the bandsaw.

Re: !@#$@%$! stupid lathe

Carole in VA

>I always before have used a carriage, but I had trashed it because it had gotten so chewed up and this log had a natural flat to it so I said "what the heck, I don't need a carraige for this" .....BAM!!!! Famous last words. I normally keep a cheaper blade on there...had just put the Woodslicer back on yesterday to resaw some figured wood.

Re: !@#$@%$! stupid lathe

Mike Rubes, Apex, NC

>Hi Carole,

I've had this happen and was fortunate enough to be able to work the blade free from the wood. First, however, I did take the blade and attached wood off of the band saw. I was able to pry a cut open with a (gasp!) large flatheaded screw driver :) and then work the blade free. Even after straightening the blade it made a "whump-whump-whump" sound when running, so I took it back off and tossed it.

I wouldn't think it could hurt the saw, maybe a little extra wear on the wheel tires.

I did it exactly as you did, trying to cut something for my lathe!!! Mine was maple, not dogwood.

Good luck, let us know what happens.

Mike

Sat with the little guys by the fire to read stories tonight in Apex, NC!!

Re: !@#$@%$! stupid lathe

Duane C.Leach

>The answer to your problem is easy. Just trade your stupid lathe in for a smart one.

Duane

Re: !@#$@%$! stupid lathe

Barry Turner

>Actually, I think the lathe is innocent here. Maybe the bandsaw's not, though. You might want to try using 1/4" bandsaw blades instead of the wider ones. It seems they don't bind (and grab) in the cut quite so easily. My personal experience, not science here.

Re: !@#$@%$! stupid lathe

Carole in VA

>How bout I trade in the stupid operator for a smart one? ;>)

Been there, done that

Mike Schwing from Md.

>Carriages help but there is nothing like experience when making lathe ready blanks on the bandsaw.

I too find that chainsawn flats may not be, and they grab and halt progress or help to produce a cut that may bind the blade. The blade can also be pinched just as with flat lumber, so look out for that, too.

I am a big fan of using 1/4" tempered hardboard as a sacrificial surface on the bandsaw table. I cut a piece about the same dimensions as the rough, and lay the rough on that, and to my cutting to the line. The hardboard, shiny side down, rotates easily on the saw table and the textured side seems to grip the blank. Give it a try!

I typically have a 3/8" Timberwolf 4tpi on my saw, and replace it every few months.

Re: !@#$@%$! stupid lathe

John Lucas

>Carol is a stupid operator was the problem I would have been force to quit years ago.

Re: !@#$@%$! stupid lathe

Dick Hines

>OK, You learned a valueable lesson. NEVER cut round wood on a band saw. If you just have to do it put something flat under the round piece to keep the wood from rolling. Enem if you cut a lon in half don't saw it with the round side down. Use a piece of card board or plywood as a template.

You were also lucky. All you lost was a saw blade, it could have been a finger or worse. Be care full I don't teach people with missing digets.

Re: !@#$@%$! stupid lathe

Dick Hines

>Forgot something. Get a skip toothed blade to cut wet wood. I loke the wood craft blades that are 4 tpi with a hook set. Don't last as long but cutting wet wood I can't see buying the high dollar ones.

Re: !@#$@%$! stupid lathe

Carole in VA

>If this log had not had a natural flat, I never would have cut it without a carriage. I think the Woodslicer and the very green, dense dogwood were just an invitation for trouble. As much bandsawing as I have done, I have never worked with very wet, green wood before...it seems like a different animal. Will take your advice and get some different (and less expensive) blades. Also will commit to using a carriage, no matter how much of a flat the log has. The Woodslicer now has a slight kink in it and I don't trust that it hasn't been weaked, so it is going in the trash.

Re: !@#$@%$! stupid lathe

Leo Van Der Loo

>Carol you didn't get hurt did you ?

You know we all do these things, and some times people get hurt, thats bad, for the saw blade O well you'll get over it, there was a thread not to long ago about straightening out a saw blade, and you know what, most answers were in favor of getting a new blade, now before you cut it , don't forget to take off the tension.

You already told that saw off did you ?

Have fun and take care

Leo V

Re: !@#$@%$! stupid lathe

n2wood

>I did the same thing three months ago with green dogwood except I was using my new MM16 and a 1" blade not only did the blade get stuck but I think that I lost a pair of pants in the process. It sure was different from breaking a 1/4" blade on the ole 14" Jet.

Re: !@#$@%$! stupid lathe

Philip Duffy

>Yo, Carole, Just like the rest of us, a true bandsaw wrecker! Just be sure to not run the bent blade as it will eat the guide blocks to nothing in no time at all!! Change the blade, set it all up nice and true and chock it all up to experience.

Enjoy the sun on the Eastern Shore. Phil

Turn that bent blade into

John Stegall

>a blade for your frame saw...don't have one? then make one following Bob Smalser's directions or Tage Frid's from his books. Maybe Bob's directions were for making a coping saw frame, but the principle's the same.

Broken BS blades do make good frame saw blades all kidding aside. I broke mine trying to cut the leg on a table down. Ruined the leg too!

Like Mike, I use...

BubbaBob

>...a 4tpi, 3/8 Timberwolf, and like you, I got it caught and bent it a bit. It's no good for fine sawing now, but does just fine for roughing blanks. The "whump, whump, whump" doesn't matter.

I buck 'em a la Bill G., and cut on bandsaw wide flat down. Works like a charm, 'cept that one time.

BubbaBob

Re: !@#$@%$! stupid lathe

Mac

>Carole, I use the house brand of blades from Woodcraft,find that they work very well, and when on sale they are around 10 to 12 bucks.As soon as you find yourself having to push hard to cut anything, yank that blade off and replace it.At the price of the blades, they cant be beat. Try for the 3 or 4 tpi, anything more cuts slow and doesnt clear.Dull blades are the most common cause of cut fingers on the bandsaw.Take care....Mac

Re: !@#$@%$! stupid lathe

Phil Joines Krum, Texas

>There's a big differance in the blade needed for green and dry woods. For resawing you want a blade with minimal set so you get a smooth cut. For green you want the widest set you can find. As the green fibers are cut they tend to swell up and trap the blade. The wider set minimizes it. So does a thinned blade.

I get mine from a local sharpening shop. 105", 1/4" wide, 4 tpi Lenox for $10. They leave a poor surface but it doesn't matter for this.

Re: Turn that bent blade into

Phil Joines Krum, Texas

>We also use bent pieces as supports when finishing. Lets air get to the lower surface.

Hey, Carole.....

W.C. Turner

>Get that bent blade out of the trash & send it to me.

Email: Remove 2

Yep. what Mac said.....!

TD

>

Re: Hey, Carole.....

Carole in VA

>Watcha gonna do with it? I was going to let a friend look at it and see if it was still usable.

Re: !@#$@%$! stupid lathe

Richard Allen

>Hi Carol

Sorry to hear about your loss. I am sure the blade is in a "happy" place and is proud to have sacraficed itself in pursuit making things for you to spin.

You are getting sucked in deeper. The bandsaw is now a supporting character to the mini-lathe. You may as well give up and re-arange the shop so the lathe is in the center and everything else feeds the lathe. The only problem with that idea is that when are you ever going to find time away from the lathe to rearange the shop.

Good Luck

Richard

Re: !@#$@%$! stupid lathe

Ben

>Carole,

Join the club; I�ve ruined many a bandsaw blade. I started using thin wooden wedges I made. I got the idea because this is what I use when I use my chainsaw. About a third of the way thru the cut I will stop pushing and tap in a wedge with a mallet. I haven�t bent a blade in a while. Does anyone do this, I�m not sure if this is the fix for my problem but it seems to be working?

Ben