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Making a Tang

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Making a Tang

#1

Making a Tang

John Crissman

>Hi everyone,

I have two nice pieces of HSS (1" wide x 3/8" thick x 11" long) that I want to make into a round and square end scrapers.

I have never done this so I was wondering if there was ratio of exposed tool/tang that I need to follow, or do I just wing it?

Thanks,

John

'Scraping' by in Northern IL

Re: Making a Tang

#2

Re: Making a Tang

John Lucas

>John

I think wing it is the proper term. I'm sure someone has done some research. I try to put at least 2" in the wood on smaller tools and 3" on bigger tools. The weakest point is actually where the ferrule contacts the wood just as the handle starts. I'v purposely brocken several to see where they break. As long as the tang goes beyond this point by an inch or so on big tools they you should be alright.

If you have a really beefy or long tool that will take a lot of abuse the best technique is to make the ferrule large in diameter but fairly thin so there is a lot of wood at the weak point. The ferrule doesn't give the tool a lot of strength. It's mainly there to keep the wood from splitting. Of course this does add strength.

Re: Making a Tang

#3

Re: Making a Tang *LINK*

Rick R, So Cal

>John,

Another option is to use a metal handle- no need to make a tang. See the photo of the one I made. In your case I would use 1" black pipe wrapped with cork tape. I use the adhesive-backed cork tape used for fishing pole handles for a very comfortable grip.

Rick


Scraper with metal handle

Re: Making a Tang

#4

Re: Making a Tang

John Crissman

>Rick,

Thanks for the tip! How into the pipe do the wooden 'shims' go?

John

Re: Making a Tang

#5

Re: Making a Tang

John Crissman

>John,

Thanks for the comments. I knew one of you wise sages would have an answer!

Thanks again,

John

Re: Making a Tang

#6

Re: Making a Tang

Rick R, So Cal

>John,

Here's how I described it for the tool in the picture:

"The wooden plug is just a cylinder about 4" long, turned with a slight taper so that one end goes in the pipe easily while the other end requires a tight jam fit. The fat end has a slot 2" long x 1/2" wide to receive the tool bit. Insert the tool bit in the slot, jam the works into the pipe, and it's done."

Depending on the fit, you may have to shim the sides of the tool bit to keep it snug in the lateral direction. And make sure the wood is very dry so it doesn't loosen up when the humidity goes down.

Rick

Re: Making a Tang

#7

Re: Making a Tang

John Crissman

>Rick,

Thanks again. This makes my wekend much more interesting!

John

PT Woodturner, PT Pipe-fitter

Re: Making a Tang

#8

Re: Making a Tang

Bill Hale / The Wood Spinner

>I do not use a tang. Cut a slot in a piece of 1/2 or 3/4 in. pipe to allow the steel to slide in to. Cut wedges for the sides of the pipe and drive in. Turn the pipe on end with the cuter end down and put in thin CA from the top. After this is cured I put in fine shavings and taped them down, then more CA.

Cheap and works great. If you want more weight add shot.

Good turning and be safe

Bill

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