Chisel mallets

Re: Chisel mallets

Leo Cuellar

If your aim is dead-on, then probably. If not, I would think it would most likely cause problems keeping your chisel registered to the work. In my case probably causing some harsh language and necessitating a trip to the first aid kit . But, having said that, A very shallow arc might work, if the chisel butts are rounded.

Re: Chisel mallets

Warren in Lancaster, PA

We usually don't have trouble with mallets skidding off a chisel, so not much to gain by having a concave surface. Most carvers use a turned mallet where you are hitting off a convex (round) surface. Here is a picture from Roubo showing mallets with convex faces.

Re: It's not the Chisel mallets

Frank D. in Montreal

...that are the problem. Look at your technique: at what angle is your arm when the mallet strikes the chisel? Are you striking with the mallet face flat (perpendicular to the chisel, if it's a flat-faced mallet) or reasonably centered (if it's a round mallet)? The face of flat mallets are usually at an angle so the line of the face goes within an inch of your knuckles when you hold the mallet. Is the work too high or too low for you to strike correctly?

A mallet with a concave face will not help. If your chisel doesn't move when struck, it's because the surface that is striking the chisel (the face of the mallet) is perpendicular, and the mallet is moving in the axis of the chisel.

Using your mallet

Derek Cohen (in Perth, Australia)

Warren, how large a blow do you make when chopping mortices and dovetails?

For example, do you swing the mallet from high (using the arm), or let the weight of the mallet do the work for you?

Regards from Perth

Derek

Re: Using your mallet

Warren in Lancaster, PA

I have about 16 or 18 inches of travel for the mallet head. Maybe just barely higher than my head at the highest. I always thought this drawing of mortising in Roubo was exaggerated, but maybe the arm is just a bit too flexed.

There are similar drawings in Diderot that have the mallet held high.

Re: Using your mallet

Derek Cohen (in Perth, Australia)

Thanks Warren.

Are you using force when striking the chisel, or letting it drop under its own weight? Wack or tap?

Regards from Perth

Derek

Re: Using your mallet

Warren in Lancaster, PA

I never liked it when people used the word whack, but you don't raise the mallet a distance just to tap. An experienced worker can probably deliver a strong blow without loss of control.

You also want to have a motion which is not tiring to do for long periods.

Re: Using your mallet

Derek Cohen (in Perth, Australia)

Hi Warren

My apology for "wack". It is a loose term.

What I would like to understand is how you control - if you do - the difference between striking a dovetail chisel and striking a mortice chisel. You imply that there is a technique for doing so, and perhaps with a different weighted mallet than I.

When I strike a dovetail chisel, it is not a hard blow (look at Japanese woodworkers as a model). The blow is measured by either a different weight or choking the handle to create less of a swing (not more, as you indicate). The hardness of the timber tells me what I should use. Your descriptions indicate differences here. I (and I assume others) are curious to learn about this.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Re: Using your mallet

Bruce, a MN Galoot

Nothing wrong with “whack.” I can’t imagine that kids game being named “blow a mole.”👌

Re: Using your mallet

Warren in Lancaster, PA

What I would like to understand is how you control - if you do - the difference between striking a dovetail chisel and striking a mortice chisel. You imply that there is a technique for doing so, and perhaps with a different weighted mallet than I.

When I strike a dovetail chisel, it is not a hard blow (look at Japanese woodworkers as a model). The blow is measured by either a different weight or choking the handle to create less of a swing (not more, as you indicate). The hardness of the timber tells me what I should use. Your descriptions indicate differences here. I (and I assume others) are curious to learn about this.

For mortising it is important that the blows, although heavy, be controlled. No wild swinging and no holding the chisel at the tip (letting the handle flail around) because stray motions are hard on the edge. With harder woods there is the temptation to hit harder, but if you know your steel, there is a limit to how hard you can hit without damaging the edge. This is something you have to get a feel for.

I have never used a "dovetail chisel". In fact most of the dovetails I have made were done before this marketing term was coined. I use a bench chisel and use a lighter mallet for dovetails. I do use a heavy mallet for half blind dovetails, especially for eliminating the bulk of the waste.

I think "choking up" on a long handled mallet is rather clumsy.

Re: Using your mallet

Derek Cohen (in Perth, Australia)

Thanks for that, Warren.

I started the thread on mallets as I wanted to share my thoughts on what worked for me. Clearly, mallets and their handles are like chisels and their handles ... all quite personal and likely to differ from one to another. Still, it is good to discuss the differences, or similarities, and learn something from this.

I also do not like choking up a handle, even though it can work well enough with a handle designed for this. Such as this one (which weighs in at 36oz) ...

Consequently, I have a few mallets to choose from, of different weights, and match them with the task and hardness of the wood.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Re: Chisel mallets

Leo Cuellar

I didn't really think about it much, because I haven't done much mallet work lately. Most often I use the potato masher for chopping mortices and carving or anytime I need a little power behind a cut. I've only had problems with striking when my attention wanders. I haven't done any dovetailing, but have chopped some pretty serious mortises with these.



The dark one in this picture I found at an antique store labeled as a "potato masher" probably Cuban Mahogany from the weight, grain and age. The other two I made from salvaged Hickory. The big one is a bit clumsy for close work, on smaller projects, but I like the size of the handle. One day I'll reduce the diameter and fill it full of lead shot.



The smaller one has seen some hard use on steel hollow punches and rivet setters and such but has held up very well despite the abuse. The finish is several coats of tung oil.