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Thanks, John!

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Thanks, John!

#1

Thanks, John!

David Weaver

You're about to be thanked for something you'll have no clue about except for my mention....as to why you're responsible!

My last bugaboo for hand work with metals is ripping and crosscutting steel. I have a portaband, but it can accidentally point harden things, and it strips teeth off of blades constantly, and they're expensive ($20 for 3 at the very least).

I also have a good hacksaw and good 18tpi lenox blades. But the stroke is short and it's a fight to use it, and the blade changing is constant (and not convenient).

In a period of distraction while experimenting yesterday morning and dreading blowing through expensive portaband blades, i thought it would be interesting to try one in the frame saw.

BLAM!!! it's fantastic! it's not like it's super fast, but it doesn't need to be - it's pleasant, no chance of hardening anything, and I can cut a 14" file that's 0.25" thick (only the older ones are that thick) in about 15 minutes. The portaband could do most of this perhaps in 5 minutes, but I can cut by hand more accurately.

This would be an all out knuckle smashing fight with the hacksaw and both it and the portaband have depth issues and with the hacksaw, the desire to bear down leads to sore hands and sometimes a headache for me.

This new setup fits in my hand tool wants - it's like taking a brisk walk, easy - just build a rhythm and go. Iv'e cut about 10 or 12 inches of metal so far and not a single tooth shows any damage at all. I could cut two files like this with the portaband and then something owuld let go, or sometimes if the blades aren't that great, something point hardens and the tips are run off of all of them at once.

This has great potential for making things like stanley plane irons, etc, as I can cut the sheet stock on a long gradual diagonal instead of across the width of the steel (which is fast, but absolute murder on hacksaw blades).

If the teeth stay perfect on these bimetal blades, I can touch them up with a diamond file.


Re: Thanks, John!

#2

Re: Thanks, John!

John Aniano in central NJ

David,

Glad to be of assistance, in some contorted way. But...

Why can't you simply rotate the Lenox blade in your hacksaw frame 90 degrees? Wouldn't that give you the clearance that the frame saw affords? The stroke length is the same, right? It's the same hacksaw blade. It's just the clearance that is poor with the hacksaw. Or maybe I'm not understanding what you've discovered here...

Or is it just that the frame saw has more comfortable handles? Or because it's made of wood, it is less jarring to your hands than a metal hacksaw frame? Or you can get higher tension with the frame saw?

Just curious...

John

Re: Thanks, John!

#3

Re: Diamond file suggestions...

John Aniano in central NJ

David,

One last question if I may,

You mentioned touching up blades with a diamond file. Any suggestions for obtaining diamond files that would touch up Japanese impulse hardened blades? I have two wonderful pruning saws that just need a slight touch up, but I don't know of any "feather file" shape cross-section diamond files that fit the narrow teeth of the pruning saw. Yes, I could buy replacement blades, and I have, but they just need a bit of sharpening...

John

Re: Thanks, John!

#4

Longer, and

David Weaver

The saw is just much longer, and while you can turn the blade on some hacksaw, mine is totally rigid. It's a lot of work to get down force with a tilted frame. The frame saw has a long easy stroke. Smooth and very lazy.

Re: Thanks, John!

#5

Re: Diamond file suggestions...

David Weaver

I just use a feather file and sharpen only the top of the tooth until it's crisp again. As I recall, the hardened depth doesn't seem very deep, but it works. No need to work in the gullets, and the coating rounds the corner, anyway.

Re: Thanks, John!

#6

Re: Thanks, John!

William Duffield

I keep a hacksaw blade in my turning saw. I built the saw from BugBear's plans:

https://www.oocities.org/plybench/bowsaw.html

I find it easy enough to replace the hacksaw blade with a piece of bandsaw blade when I want to saw wood with the bowsaw.

A smaller bowsaw frame also works well for pinned fretsaw blades (for cutting softer metals and wood). I have plans.

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