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Another dovetail layout tip

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Another dovetail layout tip

#1

Another dovetail layout tip

Bill Tindall, E.Tn.

If you expect to be making lots of drawers for case pieces, make the decisions on the layout variables and record them. In my case I have a notebook that I keep my build sketches in. I chose a page in this book to record dovetail layout decisions.

There are a bunch of them. Clint below asked about just two. Rather than reinvent the wheel I just took measurements off a drawer Steve Hamilton made in the Headley shop.


For a drawer campaign I set my marking gauges at the side thickness, and another for front tail length, and 4" squares for the 7/8 and 5/16" of the rear drawer. The 3/16" for the front is set with the gauge I mark the small pin width with. Then it is on to cranking them out.

Re: Another dovetail layout tip

#2

Re: Another dovetail layout tip

Derek Cohen (in Perth, Australia)

Bill, I treat each project as a separate design (since I rarely build the same piece twice).

One of the decisions is where I want to place the drawer bottom, and how thick it will be. These do not automatically go 1/4" or so up from the lower edge.

How large is the drawer, what is it going to carry, and will the sides be grooved or receive slips?

The current project drawers may be for an underbench tool chest, however the drawers are small, and I need to conserve space. The drawers will carry light-ish items, such as squares, cutting gauges, chisels. To maximise space, the drawers will have sliding inserts.

For this reason, I am planning on 1/4" thick drawer sides (which is usual for finer furniture), with a 3mm deep groove 3mm from the lower edge, additionally supported by a 3mm high x 10mm wide slip.

The lower, "larger", drawer bottoms will be 1/4" thick ... I am toying with the idea of 3mm thick for the "smaller", upper drawers.


Small drawers: 205mm x 70mm (8" x 2 3/4")

Large drawers: 305mm x 95" (12" x 3 3/4")

As mentioned, all my pieces vary, so I go through this thinking process for each: what do they need?

Regards from Perth

Derek

Re: Another dovetail layout tip

#3

Re: Another dovetail layout tip

David Charlesworth

Bill,

Why the asymmetric center pins at the front, please?

David Charlesworth

Re: Another dovetail layout tip

#4

Oh, that is easy to answer......

Bill Tindall, E.Tn.

The drawing, executed with my marginal drawing skills, was meant to record the variables that have measurements shown, that repeat no matter what I am making (unless it is something small). You will have to take it on faith that I can lay out symmetrical dovetails using lay out tools better than I can draw the intention. You can see from the drawing why I still rely on a divider to locate pin centers rather than draw them on the board with just a pencil :)

Re: Another dovetail layout tip

#5

Curious

John Pappas

Bill, everything I have ever seen has a half pin on the edges. This drawing seems to have a half tail on the edges. Confused....

Re: Another dovetail layout tip

#6

Answer...keen eye you have

Bill Tindall, E.Tn.

You must be referring to the back of the drawer. did anyone else catch it?

One sees the side of the drawer as the tail board on each end, or tails front and pins back.

I use what I use here so that I can lower the height of the back board to prevent its dragging. Also provides more bearing surface upon withdrawing drawer. However, it is ever so easy to screw up making or sawing this mixed bag......so I am told ;) You may want to avoid it for this reason.

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