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incannel or outcannel adze

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incannel or outcannel adze

#1

incannel or outcannel adze

bridger berdel

A blacksmith friend dropped by the shop a while back. He wondered if I had any adzes he could look at to see how they are made- he was thinking of making some for sale. I showed him what I have, three timber adzes or maybe railroad adzes or something. Small pickaxe sized things. He was interested, but was really looking for carving adzes, especially ones with curved blades, gouge-wise. I agreed that that would be a nice thing to have and that I'd been looking out for one for some time without luck. He suggested that it would be trivial for him to reforge one of my straight ones and I happily sent it off with him. Tick by a couple of months (downright hasty in galloot time) and he dropped off the freshly forged head with the comment that he couldn't remember which side I wanted the bevel on so he left it unground. I don't remember specifying in or out so I don't hold him to fault there, but it does leave me with a choice to make. I anticipate hafting it shorter than it was, probably 18" or so, and it feels to me like it'll be a bit heavy for that length. It has a horn on the back side that I could cut off to lighten it a bit, but such drastic surgery will wait for some serious consideration after it gets put to real use. In other words, it may never happen. But in the meantime, I have to do a bit of grinding. So what say you, intrenet woodworking friends- in or out?

Re: incannel or outcannel adze

#2

Re: incannel or outcannel adze

Oskar

For hollowing, like bowls, throughs, big ladles etc. a bevel on the outside is better. This configuration allows the adze to exit the cut in the hollow. Just like using a outcannel gouge is better for hollowing than a incannel. There is a talented bowl carver - David Fisher, who has a blog and has written a lot about setting up and choosing adzes.

have fun!

Re: incannel or outcannel adze

#3

Re: incannel or outcannel adze

David Weaver

Do these adze(s?) have a gentle curve to the back that you might guess is there to control cut depth and are they relatively flat in profile and about 35 inches?

In the absence of someone more educated answering, I suspect that type is designed to remove axe marks from timber work and you'd want the bevel on the inside or at least all but a small back bevel at the most.

As to the rest of the shapes meant to be do alls for inside removal, I've never seen one used other than by bowl carvers and have no (even poorly educated like the above) comment that would be worthwhile on them.

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