Veritas 20 tpi dovetail saw review *LINK*

Re: Veritas 20 tpi dovetail saw review

Wiley Horne--So. Calif.

>Very fine review Derek! Thorough and objective.

Do you have a micrometer on hand? I am curious about two readings: the plate on the Veritas 20tpi saw, just above the teeth, and the total set, i.e., mic the teeth. You could mic a feeler gauge to get a control of sorts on pressure applied.

I am beginning to note an evolution of the new breed of western joinery saws over toward the comparable Japanese saws--thinner plates, more teeth, less set. It's a good formula.

Again, great work!

Wiley

Re: Veritas 20 tpi dovetail saw review

R.J.Whelan - Sierras, California

>Derek,

Thank you. I've been thinking about buying one of these cute little saws for awhile and you've made my decision for me.

I, too, am the proud owner of an original IT (10 years, never sharpened after thousands of DT and still cuts beautifully).

I have been transitioning toward thinner material for drawer sides and the higher tooth count will definitely help with this.

Now I just have to worry about my IT feeling neglected.

Thanks again ... rj

You could always adopt it out

Bill Houghton, Sebastopol, CA

>I know of at least one good home for it...

Re: Veritas 20 tpi dovetail saw review

Rob Lee

>Hi -

The IT is a fine saw... I'd trade you both the 14 and 20 TPI Veritas saws for it... :)

We can always make more, after all....!

Cheers -

Rob

Re: Veritas 20 tpi dovetail saw review

Derek Cohen (in Perth, Australia)

>Hi Wiley

I applied my miserable digital micrometer to the blades. It is not the most reliable around, so I took measurements many times over until I felt reasonably sure that the results were reasonably reliable. This is a miserable tool - it can lose .0005/.001 as you adjust it for the next measurement. So even now I am left with some question marks ..

Both the Veritas and the IT measured 0.020" in the middle of the blade and 0.020" at a point 1/4" above the teeth.

The IT measured 0.026" on the teeth (indicating a set of 0.003" on each side), while the Veritas measured 0.023". In other words, the IT had the amount of set that I would expect, while the Veritas had about half the amount of set expected. That would accord with my experience.

I will redo these figures again tonight.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Re: Veritas 20 tpi dovetail saw review

Wiley Horne--So. Calif.

>Thanks Derek!

That is very interesting about the Veritas saw. I checked the website, and LV is advertising 3 thou per side; I am wondering if your saw is a special, or if there has been a manufacturing change.** In any event, it sounds like they have certainly hit your spot with the reduced-set saw.

I wonder if there is an unofficial convention about using 3 thou per side. That is what both Lie Nielsen and Tools for Working Wood advertise. Are these makers doing tests before deciding on set?

Because Andrew Lunn is using a thinner plate (0.015"), I would sure like to hear his take on how much set fits with his saws. I would imagine low set, in order to reduce the load on the saw plate.

Just as a comparison, my rip dozuki has a plate of 0.0130", and the set is in the tenths. It doesn't bind.

Thanks again,

Wiley

**Your digital micrometer readings comport well with the feeler gauge measurements taken earlier. The digital mic reading showed that the Veritas saw had 3 thou less total set. The feeler gauge measurements indicated 2 thou for the Tasmanian oak and 4 thou for the jarrah. Those numbers comport well when you consider that each one is arrived at by differencing two much larger numbers--the measurement variation of +/- 1 thou (difference between 2, 3,and 4 thou) is pretty good, considering the base measurement is on the order of 20 thou, plus springback of the wood.

As usual Derek, a fine review

Patrick Gibbons, Katy, TX

>You can always be counted on to give a review that enlightens the reader.

Re: Veritas 20 tpi dovetail saw review

Miles Hember

>As a technologist, one of the questions I've asked myself a few times about this saw design is the extent to which the injection moulded spine material damps saw plate vibrations, and how much the material chosen was optimised from this point of view.

My assumption would be that good damping would lead to less chatter and a smoother and quieter cut. Perhaps if taken to extremes it would feel 'dead' but I'd love to have Rob's comment on this aspect of the saw's development.

It's one of the few real innovations in this area for goodness knows how long. It certainly looks to me like a positive advantage of this construction, never mind the cost benefit (?) of moulding (which for small runs is probably not that great anyway).

Does the blade 'ring' at all if you tap it? Different from a brass-back saw? What happens if one adds damping to a conventional saw?

So, Rob, are you able to let on what your engineers have done here or is it still top secret???

cheers

Miles

PS HELP: The other question I have is whether there is _anyone_ in the UK who can _properly_ sharpen a nice Adria tenon saw whose teeth I damaged... and did partly restore with much help from Bugbear. any suggestions from the assembled wise ones? Adria don't sharpen, and Mike W is quite a ways from here even if he has time. Derek's comment about the never-sharpened IT saw makes me want to get this lovely tool back to 100%.

TPI:Stock Thickness

charlie belden

>From my jewelry making days, for jeweler's saw blade rule was 3 teeth = thickness of sheet stock being sawn. That way, until the very end of the cut, you limit the amount each saw tooth can "bite off" and you avoid chattering.

Of course jeweler's saws are typically used vertically and cut on the pull stroke while looking down on the cut.