Stanely #7 - Flatten sole?

Re: Stanely #7 - Flatten sole?

"RJ" Whelan

>HB ... yes, you want the iron, breaker and cap iron installed at normal tension. While they're at it have the sides made square to the sole so you can use the plane with a "shooting board".

If you want to try this yourself get a couple of sanding belts and use your table saw as a plate. Start with a 60-80 grit, then around 120-150 and finish with a 220-320. I usually go up to 600 but I'm kind of compulsive.

Good luck ... rj

Re: Stanely #7 - Flatten sole?

HB

>uhm... what's a "table saw"?

HB - knuckles draggin

It's the wirling finger eater...

Scott Burr in Ben Lomond CA

>Sitting by the other finger eater you could use to flatten, your err... Jointer.

Re: It's the wirling finger eater...

HB

>OHHHhhhh, yeah, I don;t have one of those either. hence the jointer PLANE. I have this weird aversion to power tools. Somehow I thought it would be cheaper to use just hand tools, until I stepped out onto that slippery slope. now I find myself justifying a $200 handsaw. (which although pretty, could also not be used to flatten this jointer)

Thanks for the info so far guys, I do appreciate it.

I don't think I even know anybody with a decent tablesaw.... they only have the little dinky things.

HB

Re: It's the wirling finger eater...

Dan Donaldson

>Try getting some bluing and a good piece of MDF. The mdf would not be as solid as a cast iron top, but should be better than where you are. Spread the bluing out and set the plane in it. This will highlight the high spots. Get a good file and take off the high spots, then repeat. After a few times with this, you should have it flat enough that you can put some sandpaper on the mdf and flatten is some more. Use the blue to keep track of where you are.

Re: It's the wirling finger eater...

Todd O. Cronkhite Maine Native, Presently Away

>Somehow I thought it would be cheaper to use just hand tools, until I stepped out onto that slippery slope.

HB,

Do not let this experiance discourage you in any way against handtools. For the most part finding a plane with an out of whack sole is unusual and by no means the norm. As far as being cheaper, well, that's debatable, it depends just how far down the slope you end up going. the world of Handtools is incredible. there are more kinds of tools then you could possibly imagine, most of which can be had quite cheaply and IMO much more fun then machines. If worse comes to worse you can junk the sole and sell the other parts of this plane and more then likely re-coup what you have in this #7. Then, least they be forgotten, there is also wooden planes such as what Steve Knight makes to consider. While not exactly cheap,handtools are a one time expense as they require no electrons to work, and they "bite" nowheres near as hard as powertools, they they can and do sometimes bite. Chisels especially.

Good luck with your #7.

T.O.

Re: Stanely #7 - Flatten sole?

paul womack

> I don't think I want to go out and buy a plate or a piece of granite to use as a flattening plate

If you're thinking of the "flat sheet of abrasive" technique, I am of the opinion, backed by careful thought, and some(*) experimentation that it is not an effective technique, especially on larger planes.

Derek Cohen, OTOH, achieved good results flattening a Stanley #62 this way.

I believe that using the "flat abrasive" technique requires frequent clearing of the swarf, and a large enough abrasive area compared to the plane that "edge effects" are minimised. In the case of a #7 or #8 this is a ludicrously large abrasive area.

Here's my take on the subject

BugBear

(*) I've never needed to flatten a #7, but over the years MUCH information has been posted by people trying various approaches, all I've which I've read with interest.

Re: Stanely #7 - Flatten sole?

HB

>Thanks for all the info bugbear. Although I've done a lot of good work with this plane, the repeatability of the error I'm now seeing with stock prep is what makes me want to see what a flatter sole might do for me. In fact, I checked all my stanley planes and I'm finding that they're all a little concave along the length. From the low knob #8 to the #3. I guess I know how to pick them! Not sure why that is, and I'm sure that neither of my straightedges are to blame.

I'll have to search around for a reasonable machinists shop to see if they can help me with this.

Thanks again.

HB

Re: Stanely #7 - Flatten sole?

Paul Kierstead

>I believe that using the "flat abrasive" technique requires frequent clearing of the swarf, and a large enough abrasive area compared to the plane that "edge effects" are minimised. In the case of a #7 or #8 this is a ludicrously large abrasive area.

Ahh ... the ludicrously large might explain something. My experience with flattening via paper has been a bit poor, and I buy the arguments, but when I see Konrad Sauer flattening a 28-1/2" jointer (see http://www.sauerandsteiner.com/news/2007/11/abs-of-destruction-part-i.html ) this way I wonder what his magic is that I don't have (beyond skill, heh). I hate when I see someone clearly getting great results from a method which has fallen into disrepute. He does indeed have a ludicrously large flattening surface, so that probably explains it.

Re: Stanely #7 - Flatten sole?

Denis Ch�nard, Orl�ans, Ont.

>Flattening a long plane sole is a lot of work!

When I bought my Stanley #8 I didn't bother trying to flatten the sole myself (besides at the time I didn't have a long enough reference surface). I went to a machine shop, and $40 later I had my flat sole without breaking a sweat :-)

I've never thought about the issue of swarf causing an edge effect with the paper technique, I'll have to go check my other plane's soles for flatness now...

DC

Re: Stanely #7 - Flatten sole?

paul womack

>There's some good references (and thoughtful arguments from all sides)

in a UK workshop thread

BugBear