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question on "strops"

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question on "strops"

#1

question on "strops"

wayne

>I am making a couple of strops and can find many articles on making one but none of them tell how much compound to put on one. Do I cover the whole thing with compound or just a section, they are 3"x8".

Will valve grinding compound work I can get it from 280 to 1200 grit.

Re: question on "strops"

#2

Re: question on "strops"

Stephen Shepherd in the State of Deseret

>Rouge is not expensive, I slather it all over the strop but like stones only use it in the middle. Why do stones have sway backs like old horses?

Stephen

Re: question on "strops"

#3

Re: question on "strops"

Warren in Lancaster, Pa

>Stropping compounds are not one dimensional, not characterized by grit size only. In practice the grit breaks down rather quickly so that you get the effect of finer grit and finer polishing as you go. Different compounds break down at different rates, and you have to get a feel for this.

I would not use valve grinding compound, but rather a compound marketed for stropping. Some poeple put fresh compound on every time, but most people recharge the strop only occasionally. There doesn't need to be very much on the strop to get an effect.

Re: question on "strops"

#4

What I use...

Scott Burr in Ben Lomond CA

>I've made 2. I gluded the rough side of the leather to a hard maple board (smooth side of leather facing up or the side to use). One is just the leather the other has green stroping compound rubbed all over the leather. When stroping I use the one with compound first and finish on the plain leather one. Spooky sharp when finished...

Re: question on "strops"

#5

Jim in Burlington Ont.

You'll know

Jim in Burlington On

>I also wouldn't use valve grinding compound. A sheet of glass works better for that stuff. If you add to much compound it's to slippery to little it hard to pull the blade across.

Re: question on "strops"

#6

Spooky Sharp? Must be beyond Scary Sharp.

VLPARISIAN

>I've only achieved(read stumbled upon)that sort of edge once or twice in my life. Can you enlighten some of us who are sharpenning challenged?

Curious minds need to know.

Victor - In Houston (Where we are having a Chamber of Commerce kind of weather day)

Re: question on "strops"

#7

Just in time for Halloween!

Scott Burr in Ben Lomond CA

>Hi Victor, I'll do my best here... Just a background on how I sharpen: No hollow grinding, no micro bevels, so to speak.

Sharpen the blade to the best of your ability on whatever you perfer (I use scary sharp and waterstones depending on what I'm sharpening)

Then go to the strops as described in my orignal post.

In the case of chisels after a bit of use I go back and strop them. During the use of the chisels this creates a bit of a micro bevel (or highly polished edge)as you go back to the strops. I strop the top and bottoms as I work. I find by stropping often during use the chisel need very little sharpening (i.e. returning to the waterstones or whatever) in the long run.

Plane blades are a different animal IMHO. I see little benfit in taking the blade out and just stropping it. I find it better to go back to the stones, strop the blade and continue planing.

Hope this helps!

Re: question on "strops"

#8

Thanks for the excellant explanation

VLPARISIAN

>

Re: question on "strops"

#9

Re: What I use...

Derek Cohen (in Perth, Australia)

>I do the same as Scott - one hard Horse Butt (from Joel at TFWW - get one. It is excellent!) used with Veritas green rouge, and one barber's Horse Butt (off eBay) that is used plain. I always finish on the plain leather. The charged one has a scribble on it, but this has not been renewed for quite a while. A little goes a long way.

I try and strop as I work. This cuts down on the need to re-hone.



Regards from Perth

Derek

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