Tool Gloat/Tuning Questions

Re: Tool Gloat/Tuning Questions

Jack Guzman from Maine

>Wow! You sure have your work cut out for you. 9 chisels,11 steps each that's 99 separate steps. How bad are these new chisels? When I got my Two Cherries all they needed was honing,which consisted of a few passes on a 1000 grit water stone followed by polishing with a 4000. I tried scary sharp when I first started out but I found it too fussy so I switched to water stones. So much quicker.Of course,I hate sharpening. You may enjoy all that setup.Have fun with it.---Jack

Re: Tool Gloat/Tuning Questions

Pedder

>are you sure that it is necessary to start with 100? Would take a test with 1000 to see how flat they are. Before starting with 100 i would send them back.

cheers Pedder

Re: Tool Gloat/Tuning Questions

Moses Yoder in White Pigeon, MI

>Technically I don't believe there is any benefit to polishing the back past 1000 grit. There is a point where you get zero return for the time spent. A nice set of chisels.

Re: Tool Gloat/Tuning Questions

Derek Cohen (in Perth, Australia)

>I will work my way through the following grits: 100, 120, 150, 180, 220, 320, 400, 1000, 2000, 4000, then finally .5 micron.

Ken, that is not necessary.

Two goals only are required:

(1) The back of the chisel must be flat. It does not really matter to what grit. I would be very happy with 400.

(2) It is important that the area immediately behind the bevel face edge is flat and as smooth as the bevel face. So if you plan to hone the chisel to .5 microns (Veritas green rouge), then that area must be dealt with likewise. I would aim for 1" behind the bevel.

Test the flatness and smoothness first before bringing out the big guns.

If - and only if - the steel is out, depending on how much steel is to be removed, go to the lowest grit that can be used safely (i.e. does not create deep scratches that require a lot of resanding).

You can jump a lot of grits. I usually "double up", such as 120 -240 - 400 - waterstones (1000 - 5000 - 8000).

Regards from Perth

Derek

Re: Tool Gloat/Tuning Questions

Pam Niedermayer - Austin, TX

>It is important that the area immediately behind the bevel face edge is flat and as smooth as the bevel face. So if you plan to hone the chisel to .5 microns (Veritas green rouge), then that area must be dealt with likewise. I would aim for 1" behind the bevel.

I think it's important to always issue a caveat when making the above statement since many of us think it's important that the entire back be flat unless it's a special curved back slick/paring chisel, in which case the curve is there to protect one's hand. And while we're at it, many of use don't care much for microbevels, back bevels, and the like either. I do care for back hollows. :)

Pam

Re: Tool Gloat/Tuning Questions

Ken Bellock (Houston, TX)

>Thanks for all the comments. I'll definitely try a higher grit first, that will save the most steps if it works out. There are pretty deep milling marks, and a single deep depression, like a pin hole, towards the front of each chisel on the flat side. (Hardness test?) I like the entire back side of the chisel to be taken to the same grit as the last inch. Just a personal preference. I know it's a lot more work, but it's worth it to me.

I'll take pictures as I progress for my own notebook. If anyone is interested, I can post a few later and provide an update on how it went.

Thanks again everyone!