WoodCentral Forums

Est. 1998 — 27 years of woodworking knowledge

I need a new plane

Posts

I need a new plane

#1

I need a new plane

Stephen Shepherd in the State of Deseret

>and I am considering a metal plane. Now I know this may come as a surprise to some but I do own a couple of metallics, luthier planes.

I am looking for a low angle metal miter plane. Wood infill, pre 1850. The earlier the better, Roubo illustrates a nice one. A later one is perfectly acceptable, as long as it is before 1857.

Does anyone make a reporduction? Or do I have to spend over $500.00 for one, which I really do not want to do.

Stephen

Re: I need a new plane

#2

Re: I need a new plane

Jim Shaver - Oakville, Ontario

>An infill mitre for less than $500.... that would be a challenge I think.

Take care,

Jim

Re: I need a new plane

#3

How about

jim reed @ tallahassee

>the LN #9. It is a pretty nice plane.

Re: I need a new plane

#4

True but

Stephen Shepherd in the State of Deseret

>Not an early enough style for my liking.

Stephen

Re: I need a new plane

#5

Re: True but

Pam Niedermayer - Austin, TX

>I think the major problem with an antique plane will be its mouth.

Pam

Re: I need a new plane

#6

Re: I need a new plane  *LINK*

MikeW

>While not metal, I am having Phil Edwards (Philly Planes) in the UK make me a wood miter block.


I have had Phil make me two other planes in the recent months and am vary happy with them. The below is my just delivered one, a small, molding style panel raising plane styled after a vintage one I lost the bid on.


Take care, Mike


Philly Planes

Re: I need a new plane

#7

Jim in Burlington Ont.

Good luck

Jim in Burlington On

>Any of the good ones that come up for sale are a small fortune. Most have huge mouth's. I have a shepherd toolworks kit that I bought for about 400 bucks. Lookup seller jurrasicjockey on e-bay. Steve might have or be able to get you a kit. I'm not sure of the date but my guess is the style is commonly called a Improved miter plane by Spiers.

Re: I need a new plane

#8

Why not make your own?

Paul in NJ

>Dovetails in metal are actually easier in steel than in wood. You probably have the tools you need: files, ball peen hammer, and hacksaw.

Paul Dzioba

Re: I need a new plane

#9

Re: I need a new plane

Joel

>Stephen,

Mitre planes are almost all bedded at 20 degrees so I don't think I would call them particularly low angle - certainly not the 12 degrees we associate with low angle block planes. The second thing is that unless they have really really fine mouths they don't work nearly as well as they can. I'm talking about a total mouth of less than 1/32" without the iron. any gap behind the iron - a worn mouth makes performance a lot worse. Your budget makes the problem really hard.

However a more interesting question is what are the chances someone in a US territory in the 1850's would have one in the first place? And this is a genuine question. In the larger, wealthier cities of the NE you get a few. but they were far far more common in the UK and by and large for working normal woods that won't particularly damage a wooden plane you will get the same result with a wooden plane in top condition. So I am curious if your request has a historical foundation.

I would suggest discussing your application with Larry Williams and see what he thinks. The whole time period between 1810 and 1860 is one of massive technological change and many solutions are at least possible if not likely.

Re: I need a new plane

#10

I looked at this one, but

Stephen Shepherd in the State of Deseret

>the wood is the wrong species. I might have to settle for one, if I can get it in beech.

Thanks

Stephen

Re: I need a new plane

#11

Re: Why not make your own?

Stephen Shepherd in the State of Deseret

>Good question. I might just do that, would like to get a kit if one was available, will have to keep searching.

Thanks for your input, it has got me thinking.

Stephen

Re: I need a new plane

#12

Re: I need a new plane

Stephen Shepherd in the State of Deseret

>I am pretty sure the low angle block plane is after my time period. So I would like as low angle as possible and the research suggests a miter plane.

Would a metal plane be on the Western Frontier in the 1850's, absolutely, 54% of the emigrants out west were English and they came directly to the West rather than coming from the states.

A lot of the old tools we find out here are from Europe, expecially England and Scotland.

I will give Larry a call. Thanks Joel

Stephen

Re: I need a new plane

#13

Re: I looked at this one, but

MikeW

>You can get it in any wood. Mike

Re: I need a new plane

#14

Tight mouth?

Paul in NJ

>Joel,

I don't understand the need for a fine mouth in a mitre plane. It is my perception that a mitre plane is used for shooting the ends of boards, cutting end grain. I think the only benefit to a tight mouth would be that if your plane was not flat on the work when staring your cut, it would limit the bite out of the corner. Is there another use for them that I am not aware of?

Paul Dzioba

Re: I need a new plane

#15

I think I'm confused

Dean Lapinel

>"I have a shepherd toolworks kit that I bought for about 400 bucks"

I thought this was the same Stephen Shepherd posting. You are suggesting he buy his own kit?

I must be mistaken then.

Re: I need a new plane

#16

Re: Tight mouth?

Derek Cohen (in Perth, Australia)

>Paul

One also uses a mitre plane to shoot long grain (such as the top/bottom edges of drawers). Then a tight mouth may be essential. Otherwise I would agree regards endgrain not requiring a tight mouth.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Re: I need a new plane

#17

Just a bit...

Scott Burr in Ben Lomond CA

>Shepherd Toolworks use to make infill kits for different types of planes. They went bankrupt a few years back.

Just their names are similar.

Re: I need a new plane

#18

Re: Just a bit...

Dean Lapinel

>Just a bit? I was on the moon!

Thanks...rockets firing in 1,2,3...

Re: I need a new plane

#19

Re: Tight mouth?

joel -( tools for working wood)

>A mouth consists of 2 parts, the open bit in front of the cutting iron, and the gap between the iron and the bed of the iron.

With a shooting board the gap in front of the iron doesn't make much of a difference but when using the plane free hand a very tight mouth gives you better, more consistent performance and stability.

The back gap is more problematic because with a bevel up plane (especially one ground at 25 degrees) you have very little blade support and very little blade clearance and the lack of support really compromises performance.

But I don't think you have to listen to me at all - just compare a top notch example of a mitre plane to an average mitre plane and the difference will be instantly apparent.

Incidentally the mouths on the planes by Bob Baker who makes the finest mitre planes on the market today, are monumentally fine both fore and aft and if I was in the market for a new mitre plane he is the vendor I would consider first and foremost.

joel

(Mitre plane collector)

Re: I need a new plane

#21

Re: Contact info?

joel -( tools for working wood)

>Bob Baker does not have a website, contact me offline if you want to get hold of him.

👍 This page answered my questions

Your vote helps other woodworkers quickly find the answers and techniques that actually work in the shop.