removing dovetail waste

Re: removing dovetail waste

Dan Donaldson

>The last one leaves some of the end that supports the piece when you are chopping the other side so it doesn't break off under the chopping stress.

Re: removing dovetail waste

les winter

>So it is done on only one side?

thanks

Les

Re: removing dovetail waste

Dave Mount

>The presumption would be that you only need to leave support on the first side, because when you do the second side, you'll be chopping clear through. Leaving some of the "face" of the waste on the first side leaves it resting on the bench when you do the second side. Keeps the waste on the second side from bending downward as you chop, and eventually breaking out.

In general, I don't feel it is a big deal if the center fibers do break out, since it is the end grain part of the joint anyway. Lot's of people undercut the end grain parts to be sure that the joint bottoms out fully, in which case you've taken that end grain out of play anyway.

Best,

Dave

Not sure I understand the last one....

John in New Mexico

>I try to chop along the line myself, though I might start out a little inside of it to prevent the chisel bevel from pushing the chisel past the line as I chop. But I only do a handful of these in any given year and don't claim to be an expert.

Re: Not sure I understand the last one....

Dan Donaldson

>You still chop to the line. The difference is that on the first side you don't clear it out all the way to the outside end. This leaves a piece to support it on the bench when you chop the other side.

Got it....

John in New Mexico

>I do that too so that any tearout- like in pine - is inside the joint rather than on one side.

Re: removing dovetail waste *LINK*

labolle

>I chop out my dovetails as you described, chopping down at an angle, first from one side, then the other. THe reason I change sides is that if you start on one side and continue on through, you will get blow out and shredded fibers on the back side as you go through. By starting on one face and working halfway across towards the middle, then going from the other side to finish, you get a very clean cut on both sides. The reason to angle down into the bottom of the tail socket is its not as exacting as trying to make it perfectly flush. That means it's faster to cut out and fits tight. Losing a bit of end grain at the bottom of the tail socket does not affect the glue strength of the joint since glue on end grain does not give strength anyways.

Take a look at the tutorial I posted. THe second row of pictures shows the sockets as they are being chopped.

Cheers,

labolle


Dovetail Tutorial