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Plow planes

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Plow planes

#1

Plow planes

Moses Yoder in White Pigeon, MI

>I have #46 user plow plane, haven't really got the ambition to use it yet because of the terrible shape of the irons. Perhaps I will work with it this weekend. I am working on a pile of simple picture frames and one not so simple and they will all need rabbets. I was just looking at the new LV plow plane and have to say that it's a nice start to a set of good plow planes. I'm sure that the skewed version will be on the way at some point. The thing that really bugs we about all the plow planes I have ever seen and or used is that there is basically no mouth on the plane. There is a skate in front of the iron and that is it. It seems to me that it would definitely take some engineering but would be well worth it to make an adjustable shoe, matched to the width of the iron, to prevent tearout in less than perfect wood when you plow through a grain reversal. The shoe could be .005 or so less in width than the iron so it would not bind in the groove. Even if the iron was skewed the shoe could still be matched to the skew. I suppose a good option to prevent tearout when plowing a groove is to have a good knife edged morticing gauge and just scribe good deep marks at both edges of the groove before you plow it. The difficulty for me in taking hand tools past the armchair stage is that power tools work so well and so easily. I have about 20 frames to make and I can mill rabbets in those frames in less than half an hour on the $^%&*#%#. The other problem I guess is not really knowing how or being very efficient or having a good sharp tool.

I did finally get my scrub plane iron sharpened that I sent out to Link last year. A user #40-1/2 scrub plane with the equivalent of a Hock iron in it is a sweet and very efficient tool. All of the air dried walnut for the frames will be surfaced by hand. The zzzzzip sound the scrub plane makes sounds even better than Willie Nelson.

Re: Plow planes

#2

Well...

Scott Burr in Ben Lomond, CA

>If your 46 blades are in that bad of shape, you could get a set from Jim Reed.

If your having such a problem with plow planes why not use a rabbet plane to make them.

Re: Plow planes

#3

Jim in Burlington Ont.

My take is

Jim in Burlington On

>When plowing it's not exactly like using a smoothing plane. Woodies will hog lumber off alot faster than metal planes. It's getting the right tool for the job to make it more pleasureable. That said I have quite a few good looking metal plough planes but that's another story.

Re: Plow planes

#4

Re: Plow planes

Warren in Lancaster, PA

>When I was young I made several single purpose plow planes of beech. They had the relatively narrow, full width mouth that you are describing. They made very clean and precise grooves. They definitely gave nicer results than a double skate plane, and I think a double skate gives marginally better results than a single skate. However nearly all grooves are in places where tearout, especially on the bottom of the groove, is not noticeable. Furthermore a tight mouth limits the thickness of shavings. In many uses for both rabbet and plow planes they are set for rather rank shavings to get the job done quickly. I think it best to lavish care on the parts that show.

Ulmia makes a handsome rabbet plane with both a double iron and an adjustable mouth. I'm sure this would give fine results but we don't often see a need for beautiful rabbets.

Re: Plow planes

#5

Skew planes

Jim Reed @ Tallahassee

>I have never found lack of mouth to be a problem with the #46 plane. When used with the grain, it cuts a beautiful seashell curl that a tight mouth would be hard pressed to improve. In dado mode, most shavings are chip looking. The #39 does have a tight mouth, but I see little difference in the dados cut by these planes. You would be hard pressed to pick them out of a crowd.

As for the blades, it was my frustration with original #46 blades that started me on the blademaking quest. Don't think you need them all. I mostly use my 3/8 for all dados because I hate to take time to change the blade. It is easier enough to move from side to side.

I miss the mouth when I make beads with a #45. Tearout can be a real problem when beading.

Re: Plow planes

#6

Re: Plow planes

hunter

>you mention that having a good knife edge mortise gauge to scribe the groove before you plow, my 45 (and I would imagine that your 46 as well) has the little scoring blades screwed to the outside of the skates for just that purpose - but really they are more for cross-grain work as i recall. The other night i was making a drawer and used my 45 to make the 1/4" grooves for the bottom, had some real straight grained stuff, and it cut like butter! one thing that i did was put some wax and then some camilla oil on the fence and body so it slid over the wood effortlessly.

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