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Estwing source . . . in US . . .

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Estwing source . . . in US . . .

#1

Estwing source . . . in US . . .

SteveM

>OK, time to move up in life. I've decided on the hammer of my dreams thanks to input from The Hand Tool Gurus at WC. I've made up my mind and ain't gonna change it. Its a quest worthy of the Grisswalds. Me want an Estwing, leather handled, 22oz, English Pattern rip hammer. Yes Sir-ree. I've Googled and Googled and E-Bayed at the moon. The Estwing site says they make 'em but I can't find anyone in the US to take my money away from me. This thing will burn my soul 'till I got me one. Suggestions ? By the way, I'd like to hold it in my hand before I fork over the bucks but I could be swayed.

Re: Estwing source . . . in US . . .

#2

English pattern?

Bill Houghton, Sebastopol, CA

>First time I've heard of an English pattern rip hammer.

If the website offers you a model number, look up the dealers and find one that caters to the trade. They can no doubt do a special order for you.

I had a similar problem a few years back, looking for the handle for a Plumb gauged shingling hatchet*, and a local home improvement center (now defunct, alas, but another local store hired many of their best employees) was able to order it for me.

This is not a service that will be obvious at first glance, which is why I suggest a dealer that caters to the trade folks - they're generally not scared by special orders.

*Another of the finer inventions of the 20th century. With a gauged hatchet and one straight course of composition shingles, I can walk up a reroofing job at astonishing speed, and I ain't a roofer.

Re: Estwing source . . . in US . . .

#3

Re: Estwing source . . . in US . . .

Wiley Horne--So. Calif.

>Steve,

Put 'estwing E24S' into google. The first hit will be three places that offer it, in the US. Check out the second of the three--has the best price. Anyway, you can get hits.

Wiley

Re: Estwing source . . . in US . . .

#4

In Chicago.

David Miller from Iowa

>You can buy them off the shelf at Berlands (google Berlands house of tools).

Not Sure where you are, Steve

Re: Estwing source . . . in US . . .

#5

LOL, El Paso, TX . . . hence . . . !

SteveM

>

Re: Estwing source . . . in US . . .

#6

DON'T DO IT!!!!!!!

cooper suter

>I know I'm not the only tradesman (carpenter) on WoodCentral, so you'll get other opinions, but after 25 years of professional nailing I'd say an all steel hammer for carpentry has got to be the WORST choice.

On top of that, 22 ounces is a relatively heavy hammer for anything other than old fashioned hand nailing of walls (straight swing at a 16 penny).

The ONLY virtue of steel handles are that they're indestructable, unfortunately your hand, wrist, and elbow are not.

Steel handles do an excellent job of transfering most of the impact to you arm.

The only people I see using all steel hammers are laborers and hack concrete form and scaffolding carpenters (that used to be laborers).

Get a lighter (19/20 ounces will do EVERYTHING short of true finish work with good technique) WOOD handled framing hammer of good but not showy quality (I've always liked Vaughn's and Craftsman).

Skip the yuppy designer hammers (Death Stick, Stilletto, Fat Max,extreme, titanium, chrome polished Harts, etal), they're nice hammers, but when you factor in the cost, they're all about show.

As a young (18), cocky, testosterone fueled, "bulletproof" carpenter, I copied my mentors (other young (25), cocky, testosterone fueled, "bulletproof" carpenters), and went out and bought the heaviest (24-28 ounce) Estwing framing hammer I could find, and figured that made me a bad ass.

Back in the "old" days, we hand nailed EVERYTHING (walls, decking, sheathing, siding, shingles, drywall, trim, etc.) a LOT of nails. Day in and day out.

Within a couple of years I noticed annoying little things;

My hand/fingers would go numb at night unless I hung it off the bed.

Then my hand, wrist, and elbow would THROB at night, enough to prevent sleep unless heavily medicated w/Bud.

Then I would get SHOOTING pains from my elbow that would cause uncontrolled jerking of my arm (no fun while driving).

Add in locked fingers, swelling, a finger nail that grows in distorted the heavier the hammering and you get the picture.

My first step was to a still heavy (24 ounce) but FIBERGLASS handled hammer, immediate improvement, but not enough.

In the end I switched entirely to quality wood handled framing hammers. The damage is done,I just expect to always have pain when doing hammer heavy work, but the wood has helped it from getting worse.

The other issue is head weight.

Like I said before, unless your hand driving 16 penny sinkers or bigger all day below your waist a lighter framing hammer is actually more efficient and creates less wear and tear.

Very few carpenters are hand nailing everything in this day of nail guns, wall panels, and trusses.

Most of the nailing is of the "pick-up" nature; a little here, a little there, overhead or tight nailing where the gun won't go. A 18-20 ounce hammer is ideal.

If you do need to crank out alot of nails, I can still one swat (tap set, hit)8 penny's and 16's w/a 19 ounce hammer. It's in the arm and the technique, not the weight only.

Coop

Re: Estwing source . . . in US . . .

#7

Coop Nailed It !!!!!!!

Andy Lincoln,In Dearborn MI

>

Re: Estwing source . . . in US . . .

#8

Re: Estwing source . . . in US . . .

BRENT

>The best place to by almost anything hardware that you ever need, Norm or Neanderthal based, is at Seven Corners Hardware. Recently I bought two base plates for some tailed apprentices of mine, and from time to delivery from the order being placed was less than 24hrs. Talk about great service. Plus the actual store is great to visit.

Re: Estwing source . . . in US . . .

#9

Moses Yoder

Re: DON'T DO IT!!!!!!!

Moses Yoder

>These are very good points for carpenters who nail every day. For a hobby homewrecker, the "indestructible" part is very important. I found myself easily breaking wooden handles when remodeling around the house (pulling nails out of very old wood) so the steel handle is a very good choice for me.

Re: Estwing source . . . in US . . .

#10

AMEN!! to Seven Corners Hardware

Bruce, a MN Galoot

>that place should be recognized as a shrine!

Bruce, who lives within striking distance.

Re: Estwing source . . . in US . . .

#11

Hammers should not have claws, really

Bill Houghton, Sebastopol, CA

>It's a fool's errand, pulling nails of any real size, or from old wood, with a wood-handled claw hammer - the handle will inevitably break. A cat's paw should be seen as the inseparable companion to a hammer when driving nails, just like you must have Laurel when you have Hardy, Mutt when you have Jeff, etc. After some years of experimentation, I've concluded that the Japanese caw's paws are hands-down the best.

The biggest problem is that only the expensive pro-grade carpenter's belts come with a proper "holder" for a cat's paw - but I think it's significant that the pro-grade, in fact, do have them. I'm watching for some heavy leather so I can add one to my offside tool pouch (it's basically just a tube, large enough to take the shank but too small for the head to slip through).

Re: Estwing source . . . in US . . .

#12

Re: It's a matter of leverage

Larry Williams

>I sometimes used my wood handled hammers to pull nails. Both (16 and 20 oz) were Vaughn with ripping (straight) claws. Lever to the side so the fulcrum is close to the nail and you won't have a problem.

I sometimes still use them but not nearly like I used to. Eventually your handle will absorb so much shock that it'll start to crack or fail right near the eye of the head. I never minded replacing those handles, they're an easy fix compared to an arm.

Re: Estwing source . . . in US . . .

#13

Exactly, sideways is easy with a straight claw

John in New Mexico

>

Re: Estwing source . . . in US . . .

#14

you got it

cooper suter

>Wood handles w/cats-paws and the sideways pull is the way to go.

Use the cats-paw or the sideways method to "break" the nail loose initially, then hook on the "normal" way and pull it out.

If the nail is really bound, lever to one side, get another bite, and lever to the other side.

If the nail head breaks off (crappy nail quality many times), bend what's protruding of the shank over and hook on that.

With proper technique, handle breaking is about zip.

You can't just indescriminately yank on a nail w/all your force regardless of the handle material, there are some subtle technique issues.

Probably the worst punishment I ever put hammers through was doing form work.

Everything your hitting is HARD, steel, concrete, hardwood sleepers.

Lots of nail pulling and heavy prying on forms.

Wet/dry cycles.

NO problem getting a season or two (or more) out of a handle.

Another draw back to many steel hammers (especially the Estwings), is that in the lighter weights they have relatively short handles available when compared to comparable weight wood handled framing hammers.

Longer handle length (w/in reason) is really one of the big aids in nailing and prying, greater reach, head speed, and leverage.

To get a decent length handle in a steel hammer your definetly looking a 22-24 ounces or more. To much hammer for general use.

As a side note (AKA useless trivia), it's not considered safe to hit a cats-paw w/a nail hammer (although EVERYONE does), thats why theres warning stickers on cats-paws from decent manufacturers.

Hardened steel to hardened steel can lead to steel chips flying in theory.

Your supposed to use a mild steel "driving" hammer like an engineers sledge.

One of the classic carpenter "lies" is, "I don't need no stinking cats-paw, I don't make mistakes".

Invariably that's the guy thats gonna ask to borrow your cats-paw a dozen times a day.

They are either to lazy to carry the tool, can't spare the $5 from their drinking budget, or have such crappy worn out bags that there isn't a place for a cats-paw to stay in.

I've always been happy w/the basic single 90 degree cats-paws from quality US makers (Stanley, Vaughn, etc.).

Just get one w/a definite point/bite to it.

Some of the cheaper ones besides being bad steel, have to blunt of a face and are a pain to get to work.

Never tried the Japanese ones and except for special situations don't like carrying the double ended ones, take up to much pouch room for their usefulness.

Don't discount the fact that not all assembly,demo/pulling situations call for a hammer to solve them.

Flat bars, crow bars, Johnson bars, chisels, side-cut pliers (there is NO other brand than Kliens for side-cuts), sawzalls, grinders,sledge hammers, wedges, etc. all have their uses.

Coop

Re: Estwing source . . . in US . . .

#15

You got it Cooper...

Scott Burr in Ben Lomond, CA

>I guess I'm a little late here, but I'll give my .02 anyway.

As stated in an earlier post about hammers, I love my Hart. At 20 oz I can swing it all day. The wood angled/ shaped handle is the best I've ever laied my paws on. I'd never use this hammer for demilition. It's soul pourpose is to drive nails. The claw part of it is to correct a miss started nail. Not to remove a nail so to speak.

That said I'd never use or own a steel of glass handled hammer. They don't give the flex/shock absorition that a wood handled hammer can offer IMHO.

If you've broken a wood handled hammer you have abused it. Plain and simple. Or you don't know how to drive a nail.

That said there lot's of ways to demo things. I'd never let my Hart touch anything like that. Better left to a sawzall and a cats paw like so many all ready know.

All said, I've gleened a lot of new and remembered knowledge from this post, and it's brought back a few memories, a thrown out eblow, not to mention the smashed thumb/ finger. This is why my 24 oz. waffele headed Hart framer rests very peacefully in the hammer till. It get's pulled out every now and then, but it is weileded with the upmost respected and caution now. Actually it's scares me at this point of my life.

Hammers need to be respected, and treated and used with the up most respect. Otherwise there are a wepond that can hurt you... BAD

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