question-north shore Superior

Re: Low Water and Good Food (very long)

Dave Mount

>Hi Bill--

First the bad news -- we are very, very dry up here. All of northeast MN watersheds are reporting below the 10th percentile flow, some significantly so. Campfire bans are on in the BWCAW. Trees in particularly thin soils are starting to yellow from drought stress.

On the food front. . .well, despite my wife's opinion that we live in culinary hell, there are a few bright spots, depends on what you like.

In Duluth:

Fitger's Brewhouse (circa on Superior Street circa 8th Avenue East) -- microbrewery, very good pub food, not fancy but very good. Terrific beer if you're a better beer fan. We probably (check that, definitely) eat here more than any other place in Duluth

Pizza Luce (right downtown at Lake Ave and Superior Street � a trendy pizza place with some other food as well. Pretty creative, we like it. Not expensive. Check out their desserts in the dessert case � good �bars� (hey, didn�t you see �Fargo�?)

Sir Benedict's (on Superior Street about 9th Ave East just past the Fitger�s complex) -- Fairly simple sandwiches but very good, a mildly "earthy" place styled partially after an English Pub (but not the food really). Great beer selection. Nice place to sit outside if the weather's fit.

Hacienda Del Sol (on Superior Street about 4th Ave East) � this is the best Mexican in Duluth, which is damning with faint praise, but you play the cards you're dealt. As a woodworker, check out the upstairs, all done up in �Timeless Timber� from old growth logs recovered from Lake Superior. Downstairs is old diner style. If the weather�s decent, they have a nice patio out back � you�d never believe you�re sitting in a downtown district. Decent margaritas.

Bellisio's (in Canal Park adjacent to Downtown) -- upscale Italian, prices to match, great wine selection (I'm told, I know little about wines. . .beers on the other hand -- note my first suggestion).

Taste of Saigon (DeWitt-Seitz building in Canal Park) -- Vietnamese, good food, low on ambience (IMHO).

India Palace (downtown on Superior Street) -- if you like Indian food

Thai Krathong (if you like Thai food) -- decent Thai food I think, though as with most spicy cuisines, not very spicy when found in northern Minnesota. I conclude that Scandinavians must have sensitive palates because spices are used at a minimum here. �Oooh Ole, two shakes of black pepper? � that�s a lot. . .�

As you go up the shore:

The Scenic Cafe (maybe 10-12 miles from downtown Duluth on the Shore Drive -- not the freeway, there's nothing between Duluth and Two Harbors on the freeway) -- kind of "nouveau�, good quality, $12-$25 per entree.

Nokomis (another mile or so past the Scenic Caf� as you�re going north) � this may be new since you were last here � it replace a pretty grim �supper club� called the Shorecrest. Major upgrade; probably the highest quality food/dining experience on the shore, priced to match. Lunch is much more reasonable, a good time to try it if you�re tight in the wallet area but like top notch food. Make sure to get a side salad with whatever you order, very creatively contained in longitudinal slices of cucumber, with enoki (sp?) mushrooms, nicely done.

The best smoked fish around (anywhere, in my opinion) is at Kendall�s Smoke House in Knife River (side away from the lake just as you enter what passes for the town). This is not your gelatinous lox-type smoked salmon, this is heavily smoked, stout fish in big hunks, which is what I prefer. They have many types of fish � my favorite is the silver salmon in the plain smoke (about $10/lb), though a lot of people prefer the sugar cure. Ask to try the different kinds before deciding. Warning though, this is a pretty grungy place. You can eat there, but you�ll sit in something resembling a lame antique store and eat off of newspaper. You can get the �picnic pack� to go with your fish, which is a package of saltines, a couple forks, and some napkins (pretty lame, but heck it�s only $1). Rather than eating there, which is really not a great experience, grab your fish and head down to the beach by the Knife River Marina and eat your fish there. Don�t feed the seagulls. Bring lacquer thinner to wash you hands with afterward, I�m not sure there�s much else that will get the odor off your hands (a consequence well worth enduring). They ship if you want to have some sent home.

Two Harbors is not much for adventurous cuisine. The Vanilla Bean (on 61 as you drive through town) is reliably adequate. Blackwoods (also on the main drag) is a small local chain, a couple clicks up from Perkins. Unremarkable but low risk.

There are some new resort-type places going in at several places: Larsmont Cottages on Lake Superior (before Two Harbors), Superior Shores (just past Two Harbors; actually, this one isn�t new), and Grand Superior Lodge (maybe10-15 miles past Two Harbors). All three have restaurants, all three are moderately expensive, all are adequate but none worth the price charged (IMHO). Rather than spending $20 for your dinner at one of these places, spend $30 and go to Nokomis.

There are some other places here and there on your way up the shore, I�ve not tried them all, but none that I know of are remarkable. In Grand Marais, we really like the Gunflint Tavern � good beer (are you seeing a pattern here?), good quality pub food with a kind of earthy spin. The Angry Trout is good too. Sven and Ole�s is the landmark pizza place, though I�ll have to confess I�ve never eaten there; local pizza places in Minnesota are usually not that good in my experience..

If you get up past Grand Marais, maybe 20 miles beyond, there�s Nanibijou Lodge, a 1930's rich man�s getaway. Neat place, a lot of friends go there for a romantic weekend. Good food in the restaurant, but last time I was there, no wine, beer, etc. If you�re there in the morning, get a cinnamon roll � killer.

Have a blast -- hope the weather is favorable. Canoeing in September can be the best, but you're always rolling the dice.

Best regards,

Dave

Re: Low Water and Good Food (very long)

Pam Niedermayer - Austin, TX

>Do you know that huge Victorian hotel reproduction about halfway along the south shore? What town it's in?

Pam

Re: Are you thinking of. . .

Dave Mount

>The Old Rittenhouse Inn in Bayfield?

http://www.rittenhouseinn.com/lodging_overview.html

Or maybe the Residenz B&B in Ashland?

http://www.residenzbb.com/

Best,

Dave

Re: question-north shore Superior

Gem

>Nanibijou Lodge--north of Grand Marais, is an incredible place--great views and spectacular ojibway pained dining room. Definetly worthy of a meal.

Gary

Re: Are you thinking of. . .

Pam Niedermayer - Austin, TX

>No, but thanks for trying. This is a big hotel, I'd say at least 50 rooms, in the victorian style.

Pam