Dovetails dovetails dovetails

Re: Dovetails dovetails dovetails

slashdev

>I like to use a coping saw to remove the waste. Then pare from each side.

about white oak

Bill Tindal, E.TN

>Numerous species get sawed and lumped into packs of white oak. Some of this stuff is rock hard, especially so if he tree grew quickly. However, slow growth true white oak is a joy to work. The boards are light and it saws and otherwise works as easy as poplar. One can even nail it easily. It is so mellow because it is mostly spring wood which is mostly pores. If you ever get a chance to snag the lumber from a slow growing tree try it.

Re: Dovetails dovetails dovetails

Dan Donaldson

>I have found that the gaps on the bottoms are mostly caused when I get too close to the line while there is still a lot of waste. That forces the chisel back into the good area and causes gaps. I make sure that I stay away from the marked line until the last cut, which is very small and don't have nearly as much problem with gaps there.

Re: Dovetails dovetails dovetails

Stephen Kirk in Quakertown, PA

>That is how I've done them in the past, but I wanted to try the chisel only method. I figure if I make a complete box or drawer with one method, then I can get the feel for it. It's not bad, doing chisel only, but I don't know if I'm any faster/slower than sawing.

Re: Dovetails dovetails dovetails

Stephen Kirk in Quakertown, PA

>Yeah, as I finished, I thought that next time I may start chiseling a 16th or so in front of the line, then make a final paring cut after most of the waste is removed. Well, I'll have to make a dovetailed tray for the box, so I've got a chance to try.

Re: Dovetails dovetails dovetails

Ernie Miller

>It's been to long sinse I have cut any DT's (slap the back of my head) but I have found that on real hard wood it is faster to cope and pare. on softer woods to chop. Cherry or Popular they can be stacked and choped real fast. I am also of the beleafe that depending on the project that DT need not be perfect with no gaps. it is best to have them that way they are plenty strong if there is the ocasional gap. so for shop projects and minor items I don't waist alot of time fussing.

You can also use a guide...

Scott Burr in Ben Lomond CA

>Board. Get a stright/ square board and clamp it down across the layout lines use this as a guide for your chisel. I cope and pare myself, but still find the guide board usefull for alighening the pareing operation.

Congrats on your 1st box!

Re: You can also use a guide...

Derek Cohen (in Perth, Australia)

>Here is a jig I made that does this job. It was published in PW about a year or so ago.

This has a depth stop (permitting one to flip a board and still retain the same paring line) and a fence against which to run the back of a chisel.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Re: You can also use a guide...

Stephen Kirk in Quakertown, PA

>Oooh, that's neat. One of those may show up on my bench soon. I like that it doesn't add much more setup. Plus, if many pieces have the same depth, you can chisel all the boards at one depth stop setting.