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Some pricing thoughts

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Some pricing thoughts

#1

Some pricing thoughts

Dominic Greco in Richboro PA

>Recently I had the oppurtunity to visit a local dealer who was selling a #113 Type 1 Compass Plane as well as numerous #12 scrapers. The #113 was very rusty but had all it's parts. The #12s were in decent shape, but many were missing the scraper blade. He wanted $150 for the #113 and $50 for the #12.

looked these items up in my handy dandy "Collectable Stanley" book and found these prices weren't far of the mark. But the published prices were for items in much better condition.

Not that I'm about to buy these, :>) but I have a question. I would assume that accumulated rust is a definate bargaining point. Would a serious collector remove rust like this, or would they leave it? I know from watching the "Antiques Roadshow" that cleaning an antique is almost considered heresy and should be attempted only by pros or someone with experience. Would removing it by, say electrolysis, damage the value?

And if you're going to clean it off and use it, would that effect the value?

See ya around,

Dominic

Re: Some pricing thoughts

#2

Re: Some pricing thoughts

Tony Zaffuto

>What are you going to do with 'em? Pure users or as an investment? If users it don't matter what you do to them if it makes you happy. If an investment, remember there were many, many of these made and the collector value is in those that are in as close to pristine condition WITHOUT your help (translation: original and untouched).

Re: Some pricing thoughts

#3

Re: Some pricing thoughts

wilbur

>Hi Dominic,

It depends on what you are going to do with the plane. If you are looking at it as a collectors item, with the intention of reselling it someday, then most would say that you should leave the rust alone. On the other hand, the amount of rust you are describing pretty much kills any "collector" value the plane might have, even if it is a Type 1 #113.

If you are planning to actually use the plane, go to town on the rust removal, and don't worry about the effect on the value. In fact, if you do resell the plane someday, a collector might turn up his nose at it because it had been rehabbed and refinished, but a woodworker looking to use the plane will probably pay more.

It's worth repeating what Bob Flexner said about refinishing antiques. If you are thinking about refinishing an antique piece of furniture that needs refinishing, and are worried about what that process will do to its "collector" value, odds are that piece of furniture won't be around in the future because the finish is designed to protect it. If the antique falls apart because of the lack of protection because someone was afraid to refinish it, the value of that piece will drop down to near zero. This is a classic case of being penny wise and pound foolish.

Similarly, keeping a metal plane rust free, including repairing rust damage when necessary, should be considered regular maintenance. Leaving a rusty plane rusty only increases the chances that it will become totally useless, which would again bring it's "collector" value to zero.

By the way, I've always thought that if I was that worried about the "investment" value of my tools, I should just take my tool budget and stick it in a mutual fund instead. Tools are meant to be used.

Re: Some pricing thoughts

#4

Original Finish

jim reed @ tallahassee

>When an appraiser refers to *original finish* and value, they are making a very broad statement to simplify a complex subject. The most desirable antique furniture is that which is original and has been cared for. There are no replaced or repaired parts, and the patina is a mix of bare wood and original finish. In most categories, these mint like items are quite rare. An item which has been stripped has had a harder life and has a higher chance of having repairs and replacement parts. Items with original finish, but also with broken and replaced parts do not carry such a high premium. Decayed wood under an original finish is not very collectible. So the true value is really condition and original finish is a good reference point for furniture. As this applies to hand planes, original japan finish or original plating is desirable and rust is not. Slight browning is not bad, but deep pitting is. Brightly buffed items are less collectible as are grey items resulting from phosphoric acid treatment. When cleaning I like to make the tool look like it just came out of a toolbox and is ready to use. Looking its age, but not looking worn out or mistreated.

Re: Some pricing thoughts

#5

A serious collector...

Scott Burr in Ben Lomond CA

>Wouldn't touch them in that condition. They are not looking for rust IMHO.

Take a look at Ebay's completed auctions for a good source of current plane prices.

Re: Some pricing thoughts

#6

Re: Some pricing thoughts

Ernie Miller

>I wouldn't ZAP a plane it leaves them looking grey and dull if it can't be cleaned with sone quick sand paper and a couple nylon brushes leave them for some one else.

Re: Some pricing thoughts

#7

Thanks for the input!

Dominic Greco in Richboro PA

>You've all given me a good amount to mull over the next time I look at flea market tools.

Thanks,

Dominic

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