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No. 7 Jointer Plane ID?

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No. 7 Jointer Plane ID?

#1

No. 7 Jointer Plane ID?

Dominic Greco in Richboro PA

>Hello Everyone,

I bought this old jointer plane several years ago from a friend who was selling off some of his Grandfather's tools. My intent (unless I'm told it's an incredibly valuable antique!) is to clean it up and use it.

No 7 Jointer Plane

There are no markings on the body. However, I was told by someone on this forum that the twisted lateral adjuster signified a "Union" or "Sargent" handplane (can't remember which). I tried to locate the post where this was stated. But it must have been too recent to make it to the archives. Could someone clear this up for me?

No 7 Jointer Plane - View of Lateral Adjuster and Tote

The body is 22" long which makes it the same length as a Stanley No.7 (data courtesy of "The Handplane Book" by Garrett Hack). It appears that the original lever cap has been replaced with one from a Transitional Plane.

No 7 Jointer Plane - Disassembled

Anyway, there is a marking on the blade. It reads "Hudson Tool". All I could find on Yahoo was a reference to a chisel made by the same company. They stated that the company was in business in the 1880s but not much after that. One other tidbit of information, the slot on the blade features an octagonal cut out where more modern blades are circular. I wonder if this signifies a cast blade as opposed to a stamped one?

Hudson Tool Co name on blade

The frog does not feature the "fine" adjuster screw in the back. But knowing little about Jointer Planes, I'm not sure if this was a common feature.

No 7 Jointer Plane - Frog front

No 7 Jointer Plane - Frog rear

I was wondering if someone could help me ID which company made this plane and get some more info on the "Hudson Tool Company". I'd like to try to establish the age of this jointer plane.

I guess my next step is also to locate a lever cap that would fit this. Any help there would also be appreciated.

Thanks for viewing.


See ya around,



My ugly mug

Dominic

Re: No. 7 Jointer Plane ID?

#2

Re: No. 7 Jointer Plane ID?

Denis Ch�nard, Orl�ans, Ont.

>At first look it does look like a Stanley, type 8 or earlier I think, if my memory serves me right that's when the frog adjuster appeared on these planes (Bedrocks had those from the start).

The blade and lever cap do not seem to be accurate items for that plane, same for the lateral adjuster. It seems that many planes of that era have been "reconstituted" with "random" parts. The Stanley #8 I have was sold to me with a Sargent iron and chipbreaker, for a while I thought that the plane was a Sargent, but now it looks more like a Type 6 Stanley. Mine does not have the frog screw adjuster (no big deal).

I'm sure more knowledgeable people will chime in...

DC

Re: No. 7 Jointer Plane ID?

#3

Re: No. 7 Jointer Plane ID?

Jim Crammond in Monroe, Mi

>Dominic,

The tote and the depth adjustment have the look of an Ohio Tool plane to me. The lever cap is probably just a replacement from a Stanley transitional. What is the thickness of the blade?

I can't help you out with any information about Hudson Tool.

Jim

Re: No. 7 Jointer Plane ID?

#4

Frankin plane!

Ernie Miller

>Can I send you a few mor parts to add to it? I'm thinking a custom made hot dog would look good on the side. And maybe a tall tote to add to the confusion of the next owner. Tune it up I bet it will make a great user petagree of these things are not important

Re: No. 7 Jointer Plane ID?

#5

Is the blade thick and tapered?

Neal in San Jose

>If so you have an Ohio Tool on your hands. They made planes, both wood and metal, for various retailers with that retailer's name or trademark instead of their own. Stanley, Millers Falls, etc. all did the same. You are right about that being the wrong lever cap. If the blade is thick and tapered, it is a pretty good one and you won't gain very much by upgrading to a replacement blade.

Re: No. 7 Jointer Plane ID?

#6

Bad news about the blade

Dominic Greco in Richboro PA

>Neal,

I spent some time cleaning the jointer plane this weekend. When it came time to flatten the back of the blade I got a nasty surprise. There is deep pitting from rust not 1/8" from the end of the blade. If I re-grind the bevel (which needs to be done), I will most likely intersect this pitting. So, I broke down and ordered a new blade from Lee Valley.

I still plan on measuing the blade to see if it indeed tapered. I'll let you know.

Thanks,

Dominic

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