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Problem & ?

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Problem & ?

#1

Problem & ?

Bart Leetch

>Here You see a picture of the little Disston saw I got for $5.

I don't think this is the original handle, as you can see I have used a Sharpie pen to show where the holes in the handle align when it is positioned properly. You can also see the saw nut that had the logo on it.

Now I need some help here as to what to do. It doesn't look like there is enough space between the old holes & where the new holes need to be drilled. So what to do?

Another thought is I do have the pattern for the open style handle. So what to do?

Also where can I get new saw nuts?

When this gets repaired I send this saw off as well as the other 3 saws to get sharpened.


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Re: Problem & ?

#2

Re: Problem & ?

Philip Duffy

>I suggest you weld the holes closed, Bart, and then re-drill to match the handle. Welding/brazing, would be as strong, or more, than the original metal so a good bit would have to be used to cut thru the edge on one of the welds. Good Luck! Show us a pic when you get it all rebuilt. Philip

Re: Problem & ?

#3

Re: Problem & ?

Ed Mulligan, Cape Cod

>Maybe lop off the old holes and shorten the back?

Ed

Re: Problem & ?

#4

Re: Problem & ?

Ernie Miller

>Drilling a new hole in a saw is never an easy task I hate it and it is hard on drill bits some one gave me a set of them HF TIN bits for christmas and ruined three bits man are them things cheap. good luck with the drilling. I may have a saw nut for you at home I hear them things sell for $50-60 on ebay give me an e-mail and I will send it to you for all ways being nice to me around here. I would drill the new holes and see how the saw works with the nuts tightened I doubt the handle will shift on you. so give that a try first

Re: Problem & ?

#5

Saw nuts . . .

s.mackay@worldnet.att.net

>I looked for months for an in-expensive set. Took a chance and sent off for LV's " Chicago Blots ". They list 'em for " knock-down " funiture. Very acceptable for saw handles though. Order them longer than needed then chop 'em. Good stuff, Maynard !

Re: Problem & ?

#6

Re: Saw nuts . . .

Bart Leetch

>I looked for months for an in-expensive set. Took a chance and sent off for LV's " Chicago Blots ". They list 'em for " knock-down " funiture. Very acceptable for saw handles though. Order them longer than needed then chop 'em. Good stuff, Maynard !

Are you talking about Lee Valley? If not do you have a URL?

Re: Problem & ?

#8

Re: Saw nuts . . .

Marv

>Go on eBay and look for a Warranted Superior handsaw that's listed really cheap. WS saws usually don't sell for much but you can get some cheap nuts that way. Do a search on tools, then saws. Good luck

Re: Problem & ?

#9

Re: Problem & ?

Marv

>Bart,

In order to drill a hole in most saw blades you need a solid carbide drill. They are expensive though. Do a google search on carbide drills and you'll find all kinds of sources. Before you attempt to drill the holes, make a drill jig out of at least 1/4" steel bar stock. Drill both holes in the jig. Both holes should be the same size to fit standard saw nut/screws. The drilling should be done in a drill press for best results. Clamp the drill jig on your blade with another piece of metal under the saw blade so the drill will have something to drill into. That way you'll get a nice clean exit out the bottom side of the blade. Also use some cutting fluid. Those blades are a bitch to drill. If you get a good clean hole just beneath the existing holes, you can leave the existing holes alone. If you attempt to weld or braze the existing holes, you could easily warp the blade. Good luck...........Marv

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