Est. 1998 — 27 years of woodworking knowledge
Design idea needed
Kevin French
>SWMBO wants crown molding put in our bedroom, 'No Problem'. The 'Problem' is two walls are 16' 4". I like seamless molding and that maybe the best way around this is to put a rosette or something in the center.
Anyone done this or have any idea to match it in with molding 3" on the H & V
Re: Design idea needed
Joel
>run it in plaster?
Re: Design idea needed
Bill Houghton, Sebastopol, CA
>If you've got a feature in the center of the ceiling (I'm assuming here that the room is rectangular), like a light or a fan, or if you'd like to add such a feature, you could run a "flat beam" sort of effect from the center of each long wall, across the ceiling to the other wall, with appropriate terminations each end that would allow the use of 8 foot molding sections.
Or, you could go berserk and put in a coffered ceiling (headroom permitting), breaking the room into two parts, so your molding lengths don't exceed 8 feet.
All this seems like a lot of work to avoid a few joints.
Re: Corner blocks?
Glenn Madsen near San Francisco
>I've been able to buy mouldings in 16'+ lengths.
My challenges come with the cope & stick in the 'not square in any direction' corners.
Re: Design idea needed
mikew
>Joel's suggestion of running it in plaster is the traditional and best method. Especially if your home has stopped moving form being built.
Short of finding someone to run the plaster, a well done scarf joint for the long runs, coping the inside corners and mitering the outside ones can be quite nicely done.
One way we did scarfs which were virtually undetectable was to scarf them on the bench and assemble them, leaving the whole a bit over length. Once the glue dried, we let in two [or more] 2"-3" long splines across the scarf joint. Then we scraped the face of the profile to blend the scarf.
We did this on both paint and stain-grade custom moldings. Gotta pick your wood well for a reasonable match on the stain-grade.
Take care, Mike
Custom
Jim in Burlington On
>Find someone to run a custom profile for you in whatever length you need. It's not much more money and they usually have a nice selection of profiles.
Re: Design idea needed
Dave Mount, NE Minnesota
>What about breaking the run with a block 2 or 3 inches thick set in like it was a corbel supporting the ceiling? Cut the crown profile in the exposed edge, only oversize so the whole thing stands proud of the crown by 3/4" or so, maybe even a little more. Might look better with three or so along the wall, rather than just one in the center.
I'd think a carefully done scarf could be made to disappear to all but a careful examination, but you're the one it needs to please.
Best,
Dave
Re: Custom
Ernie Miller
>I get alot of wood from a custom shop that is to short for them. they hav a $65 set up charge pluss the per ft rate for the trim it usualy takes 500' or more before it comes close to being cost effective.
Re: Corner blocks?
Ernie Miller
>I'm with Glenn use corner blocks if you want fancy turn a block that is twice as big as you need with a fancy finial on one end then rip the turning into four peices then you have four matching blocks that will set the room off. You may be able to start with four blocks stuck together with two sided tape. I would hate to be at the lathe if it came apart though.