Grinding M2

Re: Grinding M2

Wiley Horne--So. Cal.

>Hi Denis,

1. Bill Tindall has an article on wheel selection somewhere at this site which would help you.

2. There may be a specialty wheel--suggest call Norton technical services, and get a recommendation.

3. I've hollow ground M2, but never tried to remove that much material. That said, if I were selecting a wheel, it would be a friable ruby wheel, 46 grit with open structure. Friable and open structure are important, not so much for coolness in this case (though it'll help), but mainly because you need for the abrasive to spall off rather than clogging up on you. Your gray wheel is clogging because the abrasive is clinging and not spalling off.

4. If contacting Norton doesn't get results, the Radiac firm in Illinois has some good options, depending on the wheel size of your grinder. If interested, call sales rep. Jim Woodward at 1-800-793-8765, or try direct dial 1-618-548-8435. This business card is a coupla years old, but should get you inside the Radiac building anyway.

Wiley

Re: Grinding M2

TiO

>Denis, I suggest you sign up for the blacksmithing session I'm trying to set up.

Terry

Re: Grinding M2

Frank D. in Montreal

>Hi Terry,

Mind giving some details on that blacksmithing session? If it's anywhere near Montreal or Ottawa I'd certainly be interested. You can send me en e-mail if you prefer to discuss it offline.

Thanks

Cut it, don't grind it *LINK*

Phil Joines Krum,TX

>I've used one of these for years to cut M2 and oil/water steels. You need a compressor.


Air cutoff tool

I've used an abrasive wheel on my miter saw too.

Phil Joines Krum,TX

>

Hey, I do have one of those!

Denis Ch�nard, Orl�ans, Ont.

>Worth a try for sure, I'll let you know how it works out...

Thnx,

DC

Re: Grinding M2

Denis Ch�nard, Orl�ans, Ont.

>Wiley, your diagnosis seems right on the money.

However, I'm not sure where to find a proper wheel locally, but that's my problem, right? :-)

I did give it another go tonight, first with a body grinder (but my wheel is worn out, so that didn't go very well), then with my portable belt sander using a 36 grit aluminium oxide belt. Worked for a while, but it did wear out pretty quickly.

I think I'll try the air grinder as suggested by Phil. At least in that case I have something like 25 grinding wheels, so I should be able to get it done before running out of supplies. My compressor will howl a bit, but so be it...

Thanks for the help,

DC

Re: Grinding M2

Denis Ch�nard, Orl�ans, Ont.

>Hi Terry,

I sure would be interested to attend if I can get a "day pass" from the boss :-)

But I'm not sure how the blacksmith can help me grind my M2 blade, my guess is that this a type of steel he doesn't play with...

I'd like to be kept posted regarding the blacksmithing session if that's possible, though...

Thnx,

DC

Re: Grinding M2

TiO

>Frank, it'll be near Ottawa and it'll probably happen pretty soon. I'll be sure to keep you in the loop.

Terry

Finding a wheel locally....

Wiley Horne--So. Cal.

>Hi Denis,

I thought maybe Norton tech. services could help, including steering you to a local source. I realize you're headed a different way now, but if you want to pick up the discussion on wheels again--including specific wheels and a source for them--just give a holler on line or off line.

Wiley

No problem

Bill Tindal, E.TN

>I suspect your problem is simply using too fine a wheel. You need a very coarse wheel- 36 or so. For this stuff I think the ruby wheels may work a bit more aggressive and such is readily available from Japan woodworker and maybe Lee Valley or any machine shop supply house. Remember, you can't easily alter the temper of this stuff so bear down on it and let the sparks fly. What you are trying to do should be no problem with the coarse wheel.

Re: No problem

Matt Prusik

>FWIW, you CANNOT change the temper of TRUE M2 HSS by grinding.

So if you KNOW it's M2 HSS and you bought it that way; you're okay. Otherwise, prepare for a rude surprise.

Matt Prusik