Ideal crosscut TPI for 8/4 stock?

Re: Ideal crosscut TPI for 8/4 stock?

Warren in Lancaster, PA

>I think you would have a lot of trouble starting the saw on hardwood if you had only 3 teeth per inch. I have used an 8 point saw for many years for crooscutting 2, 3 and 4 inch stuff. One of the thigs you hace to consider is how many saws you want to maintain and learn to use well. Tools that you use only occasionally you will not be able to use as easily and precisely. If you have a tool for every situatiuon, you will have trouble gaining intimacy with your tools. If I were cutting 8/4 hardwood daily in a production situation I might consider a 6 point saw.

The six teeth in the kerf rule is all right for thin stuff , but it breaks down for heavier timber. When I did heavy timber framing, we used a saw that was around 5, even for 12 X 12 oak. Can you imagine trying to use a saw that had a tooth every 2 inches?

Clarification

wilbur

>I didn't mean to imply that the bandsaw TPI rule of thumb applied to handsaws. I am looking for a crosscut saw specifically to deal with thicker stock, but when I started looking at the options out there, my eyes started to glaze over a bit. For example, on the Wenzloff website, there are 3 models that might be appropriate, with PPI ranging from 3 1/2 to 14 PPI.

Sorry for the confusion. That will teach me to try to start new threads after just finishing my taxes.

why not call or email Mike ?

Ian (in Sydney, Australia)

>I have

he's a really approachable guy and I'm sure he will be able to advise you

If you ask, I'm sure he will even customise a saw for your particular application

Standard disclosure, I have no association with Mike apart from what I read here and on other forums.

Re: Clarification

Patrick Gibbons

>The question is like all other hand tool questions; there's just no easy answer. If you're cutting soft woods that are a bit wet (framing lumber) then a 6 or 7 ppi saw would be a good choice. If it's soft dry lumber I would tend towards a 7 or 8. For hardwoods, an 8 or 9 would be a good place to start. Do you want a finish cut? A 10 point or 11 would be perfectly fine for hardwood. At this point I don't feel qualified to delve into rake and fleam questions. If you're asking for a recommendation for only one saw then I would say a 10ppi saw and that is assuming you're cutting mostly hardwoods that require a fairly finished cut. I don't think there is a great bit of difference in the finish of a cut between a 10, 11 or 12 ppi saw. With that in mind, the 10 pointer will be a bit faster and easier to sharpen.

Re: Ideal crosscut TPI for 8/4 stock?

mikew

>Hi Wilbur--I'm slow to get all around the forums...but I eventually get here!

In general, I'll select a saw depending on the hardness of stock as well as the thickness, but sometime also for the finish I expect. So what stage of processing I am cutting also determines selection.

For simply breaking down 2"+ planks of most woods to rough lengths, I most often use a 28" 4 1/2 ppi saw--at least if the plank is 6" or more in width. As the processing gets to more refined cuts, the PPI goes up as I am looking for a closer, more refined surface left after cutting.

For cutting thicker parts for say table legs where most other work has already been done, it is a finer saw and if possible I use a back saw or a half-back in conjunction with a bench hook.

Take care, Mike

I agree

Adam Cherubini

>I think we need more info. When you say "8/4" as opposed to "2 by", I think of hardwoods and broader boards in general.

A long, coarse, cross cut saw can be good to have. Mine is a Disston #12 with a failry thick blade and 6 tpi. I think that makes it fairly rare. But truth be told, I don't use it very often. Many times, a cross cut in my shop is the final cut and may be the final surface. I use a 20" 10-12ppi saw, 20 rake 20 fleam for just about everything. Unless you're doing carpentry, I'd shy away from a long, coarse, x-cut.

I think for shear speed, the 6 tooth rule IS a good one for hand saws. But I guess I think x-cuts have other requirements besides speed. You don't want to use square through expensive wood like 8/4 mahogany because it will cost you length.

If you were faced with 20 linear feet of 8/4 cross cuts, I'd want to change my answer.

Adam

Re: I agree

wilbur

>You guessed right -- the piece of wood I'm thinking of is a piece of 8/4 white oak, about 10" across.

I know that there is a tradeoff between cutting speed and how smooth the finish is. I guess I'm looking for the "balance" number, and then I'll know which way to go.

Re: I agree

mikew

>Hi again, Wilbur.

In general, a decent balance is 6-8 ppi depending on the thickness. For breaking down 1" stock, I [almost] always use an 7/8 ppi. But for thicker stock the likes of White/Red Oak, Beech, Hard Maple, etc., it is often the coarser one already mentioned.

In some of the really hard woods in => 2" planks, I go as coarse as I can to do the work. Too fine and one can saw for quite a while. Too coarse and it isn't always a pleasant sawing experience.

For Cherry, Pine, Poplar and other woods in that general hardness range it is finer. That's because I can still cut rapidly and leave a bit finer finish in the softer woods.

If I was stuck in choosing one saw for breaking down 2" thick woods, it would be probably the 8 ppi cross cut as it works great on 1" stock as well. I would accept the slight slower cutting for the better finish in thicker stock for the better cutting in the thinner.

Take care, Mike

In a Japanese saw,

Wiley Horne--So. Cal.

>I use a 330mm Nakaya ryoba (from Hida), where the crosscut side is 9 ppi. It's fast in 8/4. Edome teeth with deep narrow gullets. This saw will cut to the line, but if I needed a good finish, I would go with a 12-point 270mm saw, and take more time.

Wiley