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Hamler Miller Peining--Step 4

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Hamler Miller Peining--Step 4

#1

Hamler Miller Peining--Step 4

Jim Reed @ Tallahassee

>OK. Here is the review. Step 1 is chamfer the holes on the blade guard. Step 2 is to prepare the squared end of the pin. Step 3 is to cut off the pointed end of the pin. Step 4 is to pein both sides of each pin. This is where our lesson begins today. First thing is to remove everything you can from the plane body. This is especially true for the depth stop and that pesky depth stop screw. Next thing I did was wrap my plane in shoprags. No need to put extra scratches on the thing. Then find an anvil and a small ball pein hammer. I like to use short pecky strokes because it gives me more control. That leaves out the 10 lb truck tire ball pein. Find a little one so you can keep at it for 20 or 30 minutes. Also find some ear protection. Those sharp little dings add up to hearing damage. Here is a shot of the neatly wrapped plane lying on the *operating table*.


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Re: Hamler Miller Peining--Step 4

#2

Side 1

Jim Reed @ Tallahassee

>Peck peck peck. Use the round end and peck away. Make sure the other end of the pin is on your anvil. The hammer will rebound happily with each stroke. You will feel a dead stroke when you bash the plane body. (I was lucky and only hit the blade guard about three times.) Rotate the plane so that you achieve a symetrical mushroom. When you have a nice mushroom forming, turn the plane over and peck at the other side. Too much work on one side of the pin can draw the other end of the pin into the blade guard. Your objective is to form an equal sized mushroom on each side. Here is a picture of the finished first side.


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Re: Hamler Miller Peining--Step 4

#3

Side 2

Jim Reed @ Tallahassee

>When you get to the end, the peined material will start flowing into the chamfer. Be careful at this step. Too much peining will over-tighten up the blade guard. I stopped when mine felt right. The brass mushroom side broke off in a few places due to work hardening. I will touch everything up with the needle files and sandpaper. This concludes our peining class. As Paul said, it is not too hard. Good luck with yours. Here is a picture of side 2.


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Re: Hamler Miller Peining--Step 4

#4

Thanks for all the hard work.

vlparisian - Houston

>Your pictures are much clearer today.

Victor in humid Houston (TX)

Re: Hamler Miller Peining--Step 4

#5

Yes

Frank D. in Montreal

>I don't have the plow plane but I still appreciate this kind of informative post.

Re: Hamler Miller Peining--Step 4

#6

Thank you!

Wiley Horne--So. Cal.

>Jim,

This whole sequence is just exemplary, showing the exact level of detail that is needed, and giving us a feel for the job too. I hugely appreciate your discussing the pitfalls where things go wrong, and what you have to watch for. Am hoping that the whole sequence can be wrapped up and archived as an article.

Wiley

Re: Hamler Miller Peining--Step 4

#7

Thank you Jim, Great posts and...

Scott Burr in Ben Lomond CA

>Thanks for being the Guinea pig for the rest of us! I for one realy apricate it. I'm ready for graduation! Steps 1-3 are now complete. Now on to step 4...

Re: Hamler Miller Peining--Step 4

#8

I did mine

jim reed @ tallahassee

>I saved my step #4 for early in the morning when I was fresh. It took about 30 minutes. Surprising how few hammer blows it takes to move the brass. Also I think the 1/16" I had on each side was overkill. If I were an expert peiner, I would cut it to 1/32".

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