I've developed a neurosis

What I do

Jim Reed @ Tallahassee

>On Bailey planes, I like to oil up the lever cap screw so that I can turn it with my thumbnail. I set the lever cap to snap tight, but easily. Then when I am using the plane, I loosen the lever cap to move the blade with the adjuster wheel and then snap it back down. A sharp blade set for a wispy cut does not need to be locked down with a hammer blow to the lever cap. This is what works best for me.

Re: I've developed a neurosis

Frank D. in Montreal

>I haven't used all the planes (or types) on your list, but it looks to me like you have it right. On Bailey planes I always leave the lever cap loose enough to make adjustments without lifting the lever on the lever cap. I've never had the blade move on me while planing. For me it would be a pain to have to loosen and re-tighten the cap each time, not to mention that I would probably lose the settings on my smoothers that take a very fine cut. I do the same with my 62 and other BU planes.

On my 60 1/2 type block planes I do loosen the cap screw to adjust, but when I tighten it down again that's always part of the adjustment, because the blade advances slightly, so I tighten the cap until I get the depth of cut I want (with experience I know how to make initial adjustments while taking the final adjustment into account).

You shouldn't have it that tight to begin with...

Scott Burr in Ben Lomond, CA

>They don't need to be all that tight IMHO. Yes, all the ones your speaking about...

You should be able to adjust the blade with out loosening or tightening anything except the blade adjuster. Blades don't need to be clamped down so thight that they can be adjusted with out loosening something, weather cam or cap or whatever. A nice snug snap and the blades not going anywhere except where you placed it to begin with. It's way to much trouble and a PITA to have to loosen a lever cap or cam, because when you clamp it down again the blade going to move for sure DAMHIKT.

Re: You shouldn't have it that tight to begin with

Moses Yoder in White Pigeon, MI

>I tend to agree with the Scott Miester on this one. I don't loosen any caps to adjust the iron. I always adjust the iron to the correct depth while adjusting outwards; if you try to adjust for a thinnner cut simple by adjusting the plane inwards the iron will tend to push back into the plane during use due to the slight gaps/backlash in the adjusters. One nice thing about the 60-1/2R block plane type is that you can snug the cap down and then adjust it until it just takes a shaving, then tighten the cap a little more if you want a thicker shaving. I can take the thinnest shavings I ever take by using this method of adjusting.

Low Angle Block Planes

MarkSmith

>Part of my concern with the 60.5 or 65 is that everyone talks about how fragile the sole is behind the mouth, so I worry about over tightening the screw or trying to move the blade while it's tightened. Once I get a crack in the sole, I'll never be able to use the plane again without experiencing remorse.

Thanks,

Mark

Re: You shouldn't have it that tight to begin with

MarkSmith

>I'm good with Baily type planes. Indeed, you don't have to tighten the screw very much or use too much force on the cap.

I did distort the yoke on my Siegley while adusting the blade. Fortunately, a c-clamp worked well to reverse the error. I think that caps with screw adjusters are prone to overtightening. I'll try to be careful about leaving it looser, to determine whether the blade still moves or not.

Thanks,

Mark