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Drilling A2, and Sargent 424

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Drilling A2, and Sargent 424

#1

Drilling A2, and Sargent 424

Denis Ch�nard, Orl�ans, Ont.

>Seems that my Sargent 424 might be a Type 6 Stanley #8 after all, with a Sargent blade/chipbreaker. Have to investigate further, no time recently for that.

Now I have to make a new hole in the cap iron of my LN improved chip breaker so it will fit aforementioned plane. I was thinking of drilling the new area perimeter, covering the old hole (they overlap) with a piece of steel, and using JB Weld to hold the piece of steel in place (Thanks Frank). A bit of filing to shape the hole and I should be in business.

Now can I use regular HSS bits to drill into the A2 cap? Or do I need something stronger? AFAIK the cap iron is tempered the same way as the iron itself.

Any suggestions?

Thnx,

DC

Re: Drilling A2, and Sargent 424

#2

If it's not heat treated you'll have no problems..

Scott Burr in Ben Lomond, CA

>Drill and file away!

Re: Drilling A2, and Sargent 424

#3

Re: If it's not heat treated you'll have no proble

Denis Ch�nard, Orl�ans, Ont.

>That's my problem, it's supposed to be Rc 60-62, same as the blades...

DC

Re: Drilling A2, and Sargent 424

#4

Try it

Jim Reed @ Tallahassee

>Mark it with a punch or nail to put a dimple where you want the hole. Use a small bit, maybe 1/8". Put the chipbreaker in a vise in your drill press. If no vise, use a woodscrew with scrap underneath. Drill and peck. You will find out real quick just how hard the steel is. Once you drill the hole, drill a larger one. It is easier in metal to *sneak up* on the final size. If all else fails, send it to me and I will drill it on my mill using a carbide end mill. Good luck.

Re: Drilling A2, and Sargent 424

#5

Re: Drilling A2, and Sargent 424

Ernie Miller

>I don't understand? did you buy the wrong chip breaker or somthing? if so was it special made? if not why not send it back and get the right one. if it is special made why not sell the special made one on e-Bay or in the classifides and get the right one? Seems like shipping would be cheap compaired to the time spent rigging it to fix. If these ideas are not an optin do as others have said.

Re: Drilling A2, and Sargent 424

#6

Re: Drilling A2, and Sargent 424

Denis Ch�nard, Orl�ans, Ont.

>I don't understand? did you buy the wrong chip breaker or somthing?

The LN improved chipbreaker was not designed to fit Stanley planes. The fact that it does is accidental. Now, and I'm speculating here, it seems that the slot on the old chipbreakers were positioned differently from those on more recent planes. Another possibility is that the LN CB doesn't fit Stanley #8 planes at all, but works in other Stanley models. All I know is that the slot is located at the wrong position compared to the original CB.

why not send it back and get the right one

There is no "right one" as this CB wasn't designed for Stanley planes, only as a replacement for LN planes.

I could always return it, but I want to make it work (call me pig-headed...). All I need is time to work on it...

DC

Re: Drilling A2, and Sargent 424

#7

Re: Drilling A2, and Sargent 424

David Charlesworth

>As far as I know,

L-N chipbreakers are neither A2 nor hardened......

You should have no problems with drilling or filing.

best wishes,

David Charlesworth

Re: Drilling A2, and Sargent 424

#8

Re: Drilling A2, and Sargent 424

Ernie Miller

>well then that is a differant story. I'm not a metal head and any real advice I would give you would be like the last. Rember measure measure twice and sitll putit in the wrong place.

Re: Drilling A2, and Sargent 424

#9

Re: Drilling A2, and Sargent 424

Mike L (Orange County, CA)

>Denis,

FWIW, my 424 is 24.5" long as opposed to my #8 that is about 24" even.

Regards,

Mike

Re: Drilling A2, and Sargent 424

#10

Re: Drilling A2, and Sargent 424 - Conclusion

Denis Ch�nard, Orl�ans, Ont.

>I tried cutting the hole in the LN chipbreaker without success, which leads me to believe that the CB is indeed tempered. I tried a bimetal blade (that I had to grind in order to get in the hole)in a jigsaw, and while I could not put too much cutting pressure the CB didn't show any willingness to be cut. The same blade had no problem notching my cast iron vise by hand...

Found a cheap coping saw with a narrow enough metal blade. It just skated over the metal.

I finally ended up using a Dremel with one of those thin, brittle cut-off wheels. It worked, although the cut lines extend past the area to be cut. Kind of ugly, but no structural problems.

I made a little piece of wood to protect the new area, moved the metal cutoff part against it, and poured some JB Weld. Yesterday I drilled out the wood and cleaned up the new hole with a diamond file. Put the whole plane together, and it works.

Now, time for fettling the plane, as soon as I can rescue my granite plane from all the junk that sits above it...

Thnx,

DC

Re: Drilling A2, and Sargent 424

#11

Too late now

Bill Houghton, Sebastopol, CA

>I've also cut tempered cutting irons with a carbide grit blade. They come in reciprocating saw, sabre saw, hacksaw, and rod saw (flexible rod with grit all around, kind of like a very small diameter rat tail file, with loops to fit a hacksaw frame) flavors. Slow but reliable, and, if you use the hand cut version, they don't seem to affect the tool's temper, though they do have an effect on yours because you're operating on a near-geological time scale in doing the cutting.

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