No electrons allowed question

Re: No electrons allowed question

Todd O. Cronkhite Maine Native, Presently Away

>Dean,

How long is your 1x1? Sounds like a job for a rasp.

Todd O.

Re: No electrons allowed question

Dean Lapinel

>3" but flaired like the flat is a chopped off part of a pyramid. Has to be flat enough for a glue joint.

Re: No electrons allowed question

Todd O. Cronkhite Maine Native, Presently Away

>soooooooooooooooooooo, how much material do you have to remove?

Perhaps a blockplane to close to your desired demension than rub on sandpaper that is glued to a flat substrate.

What's the final destiny for this piece?

T.O.

Re: No electrons allowed question

Dean Lapinel

>Todd,

I tried to make it theoretical but it's actually a repair of a violin neck...specifically the heel. The button and part of the heel broke off and I had to join a piece of maple to the newly flattened remaining maple. The button splice wasn't a problem.

I was shocked that I couldn't take super thin slices with my LN block but this maple was really hard.

Re: No electrons allowed question

mikew

>Without actually seeing the piece--the answer is theoretical as well.

But I make a purpose-built shooting board. If the hand-fit issue made a shooting board impractical, I would use rasps followed by files.

Take care, Mike

Re: No electrons allowed question

Moses Yoder in White Pigeon, MI

>I use block planes etc. constantly to fit small blocks like this, so am not sure exactly what the question is I guess. I thought this was where block planes excelled, because the piece is too small to machine safely with power tools. Am working on a peice now where I had to fit patches into several areas; I trimmmed out the busted up areas with a chisel then fit patches into them with a block plane.

Re: No electrons allowed question

Todd O. Cronkhite Maine Native, Presently Away

>But I make a purpose-built shooting board.

Could you show us some pics of these purpose built shooting boards?

T.O.

As in,

Bill Houghton, Sebastopol, CA

>excavate a right-shaped hole in a board and push it in? That was my thought, too.

Lengthening necks

Warren in Lancaster, Pa

>Dean, I don't know if you know this, but all the old violins have had their necks lengthened about 200 years ago so they could reach higher on the fingerboard. I've seen the joint and read about it, but I don't quite remember how it goes. I do know it was made with a chisel. Perhaps because this is a routine joint you can find information on a luthier site.

Re: No electrons allowed question

Doug_Rice

>How about a chisel with a block clamped to the neck heel for a guide for the chisel. The block may need to be at non-right angle, say 95 degrees if your neck angle is 85 degrees. Or, when elegant methods fail, use abrasives. Files, sanding blocks, etc.

Got your new chisel(s) yet, or still obsessing? :)

Doug

Re: No electrons allowed question

Dean Lapinel

>Got the chisel and I played with it...feel nice! This question was prompted by my shock that the block plane didn't work well in this situation I think the maple is rock maple. Cheap fiddle just for fixing fun.

OK here's what I came up with. This is for a dead flat glue joint.

Block plane...can work but due to the size may leave a rounded surface as it requires considerable force.

Chisel- More control, dead reckoning can get it done

Rasp, can be done but needs excellent technique to avoid a roundover and needs follow up with a fine rasp or file.

Sandpaper on galss...only if the angles can be fixed just as with a honing jig.

Best solution (IMHO) clamp the piece to a similarly beveled longer piece of wood and use a larger plane and plane both pieces at the same time.

Further reflection

Warren in Lancaster, PA

>I think I remember how they lengthened the necks. The old neck was cut off just below the peg box and a new neck made. The new one had a fat, short tenon (maybe a quarter inch long) that went up into a socket cut in the wood below the pegs. It was like an open mortise that got covered by the fingerboard.

If you take off the fingerboard, you can make a tenon on your new piece and a socket on the old piece by chiseling in from the front and covering with the fingerboard. Or you could inlay a loose tenon across the two neck pieces. In any case, I would not complete shaping of the new neck piece until it is glued in place. The fingerboard, being glued to both pieces will add some strength to the joint.

I think a violinmaker would either glue all the broken pieces back together, or make a completely new neck.

Re: No electrons allowed question

Doug_Rice

>Yup, size matters :)

I had forgotten that whenever I try to plane a small board, I clamp another board to it to make the plane more stable.

Good solution Dean.

Doug

Another idean

Derek

>How about gluing it to another board with a paper joint?

Re: No electrons allowed question

ThomD

>I would probably put the ends in a vise and freehand the shoot. About the only time I use a shooting board is when the normal edge set is unacceptible.

I have a special jointer that is set up like a polishing plane to take very fine shaving so as to minimize edge set, and I use it mostly on soundboards, but even still, I can get a better edge with the shooting board. What you describe doesn't seem to require all that.

Sacrificial stick

Jim Reed @ Tallahassee

>My thoughts exactly. Either clamp or hot glue a larger stick to it to give you a more standard piece of wood to clamp. After it is properly flat, cut off or remove the sacrificial piece.

Re: No electrons allowed question

paul womack

>I've planed a flat on the (upper...) end of a tote, so I could repair a broken tote tip (common problem).

I've done this in two ways over the years.

1) Hold the tote in a vice, support the heel of a long plane on a piece of scrap, and use short strokes.

2) I made a "holder" (square piece of scrap with screws protruding to secure the work piece). This sat on the shooting board nicely. Shooting then proceded as normal.

BugBear

Re: No electrons allowed question

Paul M. in San Diego

>Late to the game as usual...

I've had success with mounting a low-angle jack plane upside down in my face vise. Apply the wood to the plane instead of applying the plane to the wood. Surprising level of control gained just by turning the world upside down. ;-)