shave Pony Redux-Important 1 of 4

Re: shave Pony Redux-Important 2 of 4

Todd O. Cronkhite Maine Native, Presently Away

>This is the holder block that will go into the metal vise. See on top of it the 2x4 that the end of the lower jaw will be attached. The block on the benchtop is just there to prop up the holding block.

Re: shave Pony Redux-Important 3 of 4

Todd O. Cronkhite Maine Native, Presently Away

>This is a shot of the underside to show how the lock block functions. One end of the block is just ender the edge of the bench, and the other end is under the front jaw of the metal vise. This Lock block also registers with the guide bar, so it will always set right back into the proper position when I reinstall it.

The metal rod is nothing more than a length of 3/8" threaded rod. I didn't have a bolt long enough to extend thru the holding block and lock block, so I made one.

Re: shave Pony Redux-Important 3 of 4

Todd O. Cronkhite Maine Native, Presently Away

>This is a shot of the backside of the vise. It more clearly shows how the vise is attached to the holding block. Also, in this shot the threaded rod extends higher that the lower jaw, but I hace since cut it off to be lower than the lower jaw so to be able to extend a piece of Wood beyond it.

Another change I made with this vise that I forgot to mention earlier is that I only put in twp holes to adjust the upper jaw in. I fiqured that there's be little chance that I'd be want to hold anything bigger than what the capacity of the jaw in the upper hole would accomodate.

Hope these pics help anybody who is planning on making one of these vises, and I'd strongly encourage everybody who does spokeshaving and drawkniving on small pieces to do so as it work great!

Re: shave Pony Redux-Important 3 of 4

Philip Duffy

>Jack, When I saw the pic yesterday I raced into the garage and built a prototype pony out of Pressure Treated 2x4s. It works, but it ain't pretty. Only problem I have is that the notch in the jaws does not seem to be deep enough or long enough to keep the workpiece tail end from sliding around in the back. I stuck a loose block in there and that helped. Should the notch in the front be deeper than 1/2 in? Less? Until it works perfectly the ptl will have to do for adjustments to the design. Any guidance appreciated. Phil

Re: shave Pony Redux-Important 3 of 4

Todd O. Cronkhite Maine Native, Presently Away

>Mike,

I don't follow you on this "notch" of which you speak. Send Clarification

Now than, I'll take a stab atit anyhow. If by notch you are speaking of the piece that attaches to the rear of the lower jaw, which goes into the metal vise, than yes, it probably needs to be deeper than 1/2". Mine is a full 2x4 on edge.

Glad you went and built one Phil, er, er,Mike, you'll like once you've got this bug worked out, and good show on building one of junk wood first.

The problem with this vise in trying to put out a building "plan" is that there are a few variables, such as they type of vise that will hold it, and your height.

Todd O., er, er, Jack ;~)

Shave Pony Holes 1of 1

Todd O. Cronkhite Maine Native, Presently Away

>Phil,

I re-read your question and I'm thinking now that what you meant by "notch" was the hole for the lower jaw dowel, so I went out to the garag, er, er, shop took mine apart and snapped a shot of them. Now, mind you, my holes are 15/16 which are bigger than the 5/8" (IIRC) that was in chris's article. I really don't think that matters none tho.

My jaw holes are centered on 7/8" in from the front edge, and the top jaw hole is centered on 2 1/4" from the lower jaw hole.

The hole to the rear of the vise, which is the pivot point for the vise itself is centered at 2 1/4" from the front edge.

Now, I think that the spacing of the upper and lower holes is not critical. The only think that would be critical is the offset between the rear hole and the jaw holes, as if you got them too close the vise wouldn't pivot.

HTH

T.O.

Way cool

jim reed @ tallahassee

>Now where are the chisel handles that you have made using said pony vise?

Re: Way cool

Todd O. Cronkhite Maine Native, Presently Away

>Now where are the chisel handles that you have made using said pony vise?

-They're still hiding in chucks of wood that I have kickin around. I'll free them shortly. ;~)

Todd O.

Re: Shave Pony Holes 1of 1

Philip Duffy

>Todd, What I was referring to was the notch/notches at the front of the jaws - -where the workpiece is held. Since my original question I re-positioned the two jaw sections so the pivot point is not so far apart and therefore the jaws are closer together. That increases the surface area on the work-stick. Then I made the notch in the jaws larger so a sizable work_piece would fit further down into the notch, thereby increasing the holding power of the jaws. It is not exactly all done, but mighty close and it works just fine. Thanks! Before you posting I had so idea there was such a useful gadget. Phil

Re: Shave Pony Holes 1of 1

Todd O. Cronkhite Maine Native, Presently Away

>No Thanks necessary Phil it was purely my Pleasure, and I am very Happy that it helped somebody to add another weapon to their arsenal.

Seems that you also have made a few improvements and adaptations to it as well, which I think is way, way cool.

I have a few ideas on how to back it more storage friendly as well, especially the foot pedal. all you've got to do is bore a hole all the way thru the sides and the petal and put a dowel thru it, that way the petal will fold up between the sides. Than one the underside of the pedal, when it is in the down position, bore holes just thru the sides and put a dowel thru them so that the bottom of the pedal will rest on it and provide resistance. Perhaps you could even drill other holes as well so that you can position the pedal in different positions.

Did you make a lock block for like I did on my second one?

will you be posting a pic of your Shaving Pony?

T.O.

Well done Todd!

Scott Burr in Ben Lomond CA

>Thanks for all the info you provided the past few days on this. It will save me a lot of time and wood when it comes too making mine!

Ya gonna paint it pink or soptted like an Appaloosa?

Re: Well done Todd!

Todd O. Cronkhite Maine Native, Presently Away

>No paint at all. I like to see Wood age naturally, even if is plywood. In most cases it's a tragety in my mind to cover up the beauty of wood with paint.

Have been thinking for a name for it tho. ;~)

T.O.

Hmmmm...

Scott Burr in Ben Lomond CA

>Trigger, Buttermilk, Topper, Silver, Lu Lu bell, how's that for a start.