Hey Scott Burr -- Here's your curly shot!

Ooh! Ooh! I'm a lefty!! I'll take it!!

Bill Houghton, colder than Anchorage, CA No. Coast

>

Ohhh... Ahhh...Ooo...

Scott Burr, 25 deg in Ben Lomond, CA

>Very nice shavings! I see you got them all tuned up (or at least one of them). Is the other one still alive, or did it give it's life to the cause?

Thanks for showing them shavings

Re: Wooden Stanley 289. . .

Dave Mount

>Hey Scott--

I did do a little experimenting with the other one -- it is still alive but is now, uh, er. . .aesthetically challenged.

As I said before, I was trying to make a plane I could use one handed to shave tenon cheeks on a bench hook. In the traditional form, you don't get much of a grip one handed, so I experimented on some pieces of scrap then bit the bullet and cut a closed tote of sorts on the other one, see pic below.

This one was also the one that chattered badly. After doing some closer inspection, I found that the iron was not bedded quit as evenly as I had originally thought, the leading corner was up just a tiny bit. I stuck a 0.005" brass shim under that corner and performance went way up -- doesn't chatter any more.

So now I basically have a left handed wooden Stanley 289 sans nickers and fence, and it fits in the hand well. Unfortunately, what I have found is that having a plane that is much longer than a typical tenon and a grip well behind the cutting edge, it is just too hard to keep the plane registered properly on the tenon cheek with one hand. If I use two hands, like I'll show in a follow up pic, it works very well. It's a little awkward, but I can still use the bench hook to hold the workpiece, but a have to hold it in place with my left forearm.

I think to really do this one handed, I need something shorter that fits in your hand easily. It's easy to trim the cheeks with my 9-1/2, but of course it's not a rebate. Guess I'm going to have to break down and order that LN LH 140. . .what a bummer (ha ha).

Best,

Dave

Re: in action two-handed

Dave Mount

>In action trimming a tenon cheek (which you can't see anything of except the end under the iron).

This pic makes the grip look really uncomfortable, but it's actually not. There just really isn't room in this plane for a three-finger opening. The toted molding planes had the totes sticking up above the main body to get sufficient room.

I also don't know why my hands look like I've got the thing in a Vulcan death grip -- it's actually easy to hold and use.

Take care,

Dave

It's Alive!

Scott Burr in Ben Lomond CA

>Who would of thought .005 could cause so much chatter. I guess being on the leading edge would be the worst spot to have a gap. Thanks for sharing!

Oh yea, bite the bullet and get the LN ;^)

Re: It's Alive!

Todd O. Cronkhite Maine Native, Presently Away

>Hey Dave, those curlies are looking REAL GOOD! Congrats on getting your plane tuned up.

Tell us again, how did you make that tapered spiral shaving ejector?

Todd O.

Re: Shaping the escapement

Dave Mount

>Whelan's book describes a method in which you cut a "double skewed" hole (as in the exit hole has different x and y coordinates than the entry hole) through the plane body then, assuming you don't have the special reamer that makes the conical shape, you shape the cone with a gouge.

I didn't have that special reamer, and doing it all freehand with a gouge didn't sound like much fun. Instead, I drilled a series of stepped holes with Forstner bits from 1-5/8" down to 5/8". Each hole advanced about 3/16" over the previous one. Rather than having the same center, they had the same tangent, with the tangent point at the breast line of the mortise. Then I took the gouge and kind of "connected the dots" (or rings, in this case) to smooth it out.

Easier to do than describe.

Best,

Dave

Re: Shaping the escapement

Todd O. Cronkhite Maine Native, Presently Away

>Makes perfect sense, and that's exactly what I would of done.

T.O.