Re: I was wondering..
thomd
>I have only one 500 dollar saw, and it's a log saw, so hard to compare. Otherwise my saws are all under 200 and mostly closer to 50. my experience is that the more you pay the better they are. fairly linear progresion. I think Pam made a good point recently when she was talking about how easy dovetails are. I would elaborate the point as being that most of what passes as hand made up here is actually machine made, so who cares about doing the big stuff by hand, while our joinery is all very short (the Pam point), so the sawing is not such a big deal. So if you are buying saws in the range where the teeth are adjusted for the type of cut and wood being cut (rip, hardwood or riff, softwood), then you are likely to get the best possible results, and have good feel in the saw. I don't think the saw will determine your results here, above 30 bucks. But you will notice differencecs in the saws for sure. If you want a wide saw to perfectly hold a line when ripping out stock that most probably cut on bandsaws, then a higher grade of saw will be required/beneficial.
It's like cars. Anything that moves will get you to the store. You can esily tell the difference between the higher end vehicles and the ones at the lower end. At some level the added features may be required, like in the Paris Dakar, or the autoban.
I have dozukis from 1970, or 1980, and they were cheap or moderate, they still cut fine today. If you are blowing out teeth, then the fault is most likely with the user. One thing to remember is that the Japanese sellect wood by it's perfection, not it's anomolies. That said, the only time I have broken teeth was when CCing the bottom of a door that turned out to have some of those huge staples in they used to hold it in a box. You can damage teeth on knots etc... but even there with care I have not broken any. Of course you can damge saws without breaking the teeth. I keep a variety of saws around. The lowest of the low is the LV plywood blade, and the various record pull saws they have been selling for rough work at prices like 10 bucks. I have plywood saws goint back nearly 30 years that are still useable, though the oldest is mostly dull. Then there are the cheaper replacement blade saws like those by Toshiro (pretty good saws) and some of the cheaper dozukis that various people sell. Then I have a few good saws, etc... I use these in a higherarchy of need. So I would never blow a .014 dozuki cross cutting scrap painted 2x4, and I would need instructions on how to break them in clean wood.