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If you can't lower the bench...

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If you can't lower the bench...

#1

If you can't lower the bench...

Paul M. in San Diego

>I've been turning many round holes into square ones for my current fence project. I'm using Ipe which is a tough weatherproof wood to make rails and balusters in a typical deck railing. I've drilled out round holes in the rails to fit the balusters, and I'm squaring them off with a mortise chisel to fit the square balusters. I'm sure there are many other ways to do this, but this is what I've selected.

So no problem... just bang out lots of square holes. Except with my high bench, I'm getting shoulder problems from wielding the mallet up around and above head level. I know that most people use a low mortising bench to do this type of activity to lower the work to a more friendly level. But I don't have such a bench available (or even a log to use here in suburbia), so I found a differnet way.

If you can't move Mohammed to the mountain, then move the mountain to Mohammed. I got out a cinder block and stood on it at my bench to raise myself up about 8". This works great. You don't move around much when mortising since you typically stand in one spot over the leg of the bench and bang away. Now the mallet is below shoulder level, so it's mostly elbow action rather than shoulder. I'm much more productive now.

Cinder blocks... they're not just for flattening waterstones anymore. ;-)

-- Paul M.

Re: If you can't lower the bench...

#2

:)

Pam Niedermayer - Austin, TX

>

Re: If you can't lower the bench...

#3

Way to go Paul...

Scott Burr in windy/rainy Ben Lomond, CA

>Thanks for the insider info, so to speak.

Scott, Who remembers a pull out step on someone's bench design. I'd like to incorp. into my own bench... If I ever get it done or off the ground for that matter.

Re: If you can't lower the bench...

#4

When one size does not fit all...

Jim Reed @ Tallahassee

>That was a clever solution. My anvil is on an extra high stand and is about chest high. Just right for stamping, which is all I use it for. That height is a little unconventional, but sometimes the correct height of work surfaces depends on the type of work.

Re: If you can't lower the bench...

#5

Re: If you can't lower the bench...

paul womack

>A common tip in older books (with reference to young woodworkers, or schools) is to make a platform, around 4-6" high depending on requirment.

BugBear

Re: If you can't lower the bench...

#6

Re: If you can't lower the bench... *LINK*

vlparisian in damp but warm Houston

>hey Paul, I just finished a ten inch high stool for my shop. I built mine with the idea of reaching my overhead outlets easier. The design is from a book on small projects from Taunton Press. I had fun building it. I built mine with scrap red oak but if I were doing it over I would suggest something easier to work with hand tools (damhikt). I think the design could be readily modified for a stool/bench about two feet to thirty inches long. Which will be my next iteration. Should be great for working high on those awkward pieces.

victor


building small projects

Re: If you can't lower the bench...

#7

Re: If you can't lower the bench...

Alan Schwabacher

>I guess that's the flip side of the story in one of Roy Underhill's books about the apprentice who, lacking a workbench, removed a few floorboards, dug a hole in the ground to stand, and used the floor as a workbench.

Re: If you can't lower the bench...

#8

Re: If you can't lower the bench...

Paul M. in San Diego

>Hi Alan,

That's funny. It wouldn't work very well to dig a hole in my concrete garage. I guess I'll stick to my cinder block. ;-)

Re: If you can't lower the bench...

#9

Re: If you can't lower the bench...

Pam Niedermayer - Austin, TX

>That's what a lot of Japanese blacksmiths do with their dirt floors.

Pam

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