Shooting board storage

Shooting board storage .. and The Aftermath!

Derek Cohen (in Perth, Australia)

>Todd

You have seen pics of my ramped board. It is a bit more bulky than most. It gets stored on a shelf under the bench. This keeps it close to hand for when needed.

.... The only problem is finding some space on the bench itself !!!!!

See if you can find it here ... and this was just after building a small box!

Regards from Perth

Derek

Re: Shooting board storage

Pam Niedermayer - Austin, TX

>Todd, mine is also a monster board like Derek's; but all of it except the fence is made of 3/4" plywood. I'm not sure what the fence is, probably poplar, it's kind of green. Anyhow, I sit it upright on the edge of a counter with cabinets underneath to the left of the bench. Due to the bench/board stop, it sits straight up and is handy.

Pam

Re: Shooting board storage

Jack Guzman from Maine

>Todd,I keep mine on a shelf under my bench also.I think because of the shape,if it was put elsewhere,I'd end up burying it under stuff.---Jack

your grinder location

bill tindall, E. TN

>Your grinder is close to your bench, planes, etc. What do you do to keep the shed wheel grits from becoming embedded in projects, which in turn make crisp groves on all edges and soles that encounter them?

I used to get stray scratches on planes and the like and traced the problem to abrasive particles from the grinder that got embedded in lumber. Over time I have move the grit shedder farther and farther away from all lumber working areas. I would move it outside if it was practical.

Re: your grinder location

Derek Cohen (in Perth, Australia)

>Hi Bill

Thanks for the warning. That grinder is presently under renovation. I do all my grinding well away from my workbench. In fact, grinding is either done on a stationary belt sander, which requires a stand of its own. Or it is done on a high speed grinder, which is close to my Jet mini lathe.

I am not sure I should be posting these pictures here, but whatthehell... 6" grinder with 60 grit Nortons white wheel and hard felt wheel and Veritas tool rest ...

Regards from Perth

Derek

Are those containers off to the back right

Bill Houghton, wintry rain again, Sebastopol, CA

>peanut butter, jam, and vegemite, to keep you going?

In my fantasy shop, I've got a cart about the size of a mechanic's rollaway (maybe even a mechanic's rollaway...) behind me at the bench to set tools on; but in my real shop, I wind up with a bench just like yours!

No guards on the grinder?

Bill Houghton, wintry rain again, Sebastopol, CA

>I've never seen it, but having read descriptions of what happens when a grinding wheel shatters, I won't run a grinding wheel without a guard anymore. Gets in the way sometimes, but beats picking grinding wheel bits out of my forehead.

Re: Shooting board storage

Todd O. Cronkhite Maine Native, Presently Away

>I think mine is going to get stowed by hanging it on outside of one of the chest of drawers that will fit under the over hang of my bench. Otherwise, as Jack says, if stored flat, than it become a empty horizontal surface, and we all know how that will turn out eh? ;~)

Got all the bits and pieces cut out and dry assembled for these chest of drawers and should get them all screwed together tomorrow. Yup, down and dirty plywood, 2x's, and drywall screws construction, but hey, it's better storage than what I don't have. Perhaps over time I'll replace it with better stuff, but I highly doubt it. ;~)

Sunday I did manage to finally get my vise attached to the bench. this vise has been looking for a home since 1988 or 89. It's a W.C. Turner number 2. I bought it at a flea market for $12 while stationed in N.J.

T.O.

And offered it as ballast for the remainder

Bill Houghton, wintry rain again, Sebastopol, CA

>of your military career?

I'm picturing this thing following you around various stations over the years....

Re: No guards on the grinder?

Derek Cohen (in Perth, Australia)

>Bill

You are right about safety. The original guards got in the way so I removed them. I grind with such a gentle touch, plus the Norton wheel is good quality. I wonder whether there is/was a common denominator with wheels that shattered - rough use, cheap material, use of the side, etc?

Regards from Perth

Derek

Re: No guards on the grinder?

Frank D. in Montreal

>"I wonder whether there is/was a common denominator with wheels that shattered - rough use, cheap material, use of the side, etc?"

One factor is grinding too heavy for too long and overheating the wheel; grinding unevenly and overheating one portion of the wheel (like side grinding); but then there's always the defective wheel. Even Norton warns against this. I don't use guards on all my grinders either but I'm always aware that a wheel can shatter any time, so I at least try to keep my face out of line. Jim Reed always promotes grinder safety and I learned a lot from him. Eventually I'll get a turners mask.

Re: No guards on the grinder?

Peter Evans

>The main danger is when starting up! Never stand in front of grinder, guards or not when switching on. If a wheel is tested before mounting (and is ok) and is not abused - such as dropping grinder when moving it, using side of wheel, grinding a tool before grinder is warmed up (1-2 mins) or some such, the danger of exploding wheels is not great I understand. Of course if you are in front of the wheel when it does explode, guard or no guard you are at risk.

Flying sparks is probably the main problem of not using guard and spark plate.

Re: And offered it as ballast for the remainder

Todd O. Cronkhite Maine Native, Presently Away

>It sure did Bill! I almost sold it once, but than decided not too. It is a quick acting vise, and the only kick I have with it is that sometimes when claping something up in it, the coarse teeth don't quite line up, so I have to open it a wee bit more in which case I have to insert a thin shim between the work and the front jaw. Tho once tighten down the object is immoveable.

I am happy that this old horse has finally found a stable.

T.O.

Re: No guards on the grinder?

thomd

>I always use a face shield, I've had a few close calls turning so I am probably a little wary. I think the point about sparks is really good. I worry about fire no mater how careful I am about sweeping up the area.

SAFETY SAFETY SAFETY

Jim Reed @ Tallahassee

>Grinder wheels explode. People die every year due to exploding wheels. The mode of failure is UNPREDICTIBLE. It is not just at startup, it is not just with new wheels, it is not with hot wheels, it is not from grinding on the side. It is from internal stresses in the wheel that you CANNOT PREDICT. You may DIE as the result of your injuries. Guards should be in place always. Dust masks (not paper ones) are ESSENTIAL. Grinding dust, even a little bit, WILL muck up your lungs. Grinding wheel shards will break your head. Here are the essential things to ALWAYS use: 1)Eye protection, 2)Wheel guards, 3)Breathing protection, 4)Ear protection.

I grind five or ten hours some weeks. I ALWAYS use eye protection, ear protection, breathing protection, and protective clothing. Even for five minute sessions. Sometimes I even wear goggles over my eyeglasses. Even so, I have four dingers in the lenses of the eyeglasses I am now wearing. Those nasty sparks could have been in my eyes! Grinding is VERY dangerous. Do yourself a favor and use every bit of protection you can find.

One thing though...

Dan Donaldson

>A face shield or turners mask will not offer much in the way of protection if a wheel goes. Think getting hit in the face with a sledge hammer.

Re: One thing though...

thomd

>Well it may not stop that but the face is a relatively small quadrant if you're lucky you get just some small stuff. One of those perfect being the enemy of the good situations.

The number one thing one can do is chuck the grinding wheel in favour of a belt grinder. Obviously a 2x72 machine is first choice, but other machines already owned will do well also. This eliminates the exploding wheel thing, reduces time grinding in terms of safety, reduces by a huge factor the amount of abrassive dust, just for starters. You can push hard enough to stop a 3hp motor, and you are running many times better abrassives, so do the math on speed. Metal is ripped away so fast it lands in a pile of wool like mater on the floor, without much airborn dust, though protection is certainly necesarry.

Re: One thing though...

Derek Cohen (in Perth, Australia)

>The number one thing one can do is chuck the grinding wheel in favour of a belt grinder. Obviously a 2x72 machine is first choice, but other machines already owned will do well also.

Hi Thom

I much prefer a 6" wide belt sander to the high speed grinder. The grinder is used for hollow grinding chisels and blades for BD planes. The belt sander is mostly used for BU blades, which then receive a microbevel.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Re: second that.....

Norman (Ottawa, Ont.)

>I use the Viel 1 in. belt sanding setup ( picked up at LV) to primary grind my chisels and plane irons. The process is not quite as fast as a grinder, but very safe in comparison. all that can happen really is that the belt breaks, and then it literally falls off. This has never even occured to me. Belts are extremely inexpensive and last forever ( 120X - Blue Zirconium).

It's such a simple machine, all you need to do is get a 1/3HP motor or similar to power it.

The main difference between belt sanding and wheel grinding is the flat bevel with belts and hollow grind with the grinding wheel.

Not an issue with me, I can put a microbevel on either.

I occasionally wonder if I should get a grinder, but have had no need for one as of yet.

Norman

Re: photo worth 1000 words.

Norman (Metcalfe, Ont.)

>Here is a photo of the Viel system with tilt table and

grinding jig.

It can be used free-hand or with the LV Grinding Jig which

slides in the square groove of the table.

An alternative to a grinding wheel setup in many cases.

Norman

Re: Are those containers off to the back right

Derek Cohen (in Perth, Australia)

>Hi Bill

Heh .. vegemite indeed! :)

Actually, those jars contain pigment for resin, which was used in fitting the blades to the bunch of marking knives I recently made.

A mechanics trolley - now there is an idea! I have this really useful rolling bench/vise, about 4 feet long x 2 feet wide. It is used for clamping work to saw, drill, etc. The trouble is that much of the time it just collects junk. I'll try and get a picture of it for here.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Re: photo worth 1000 words.

thomd

>Nice clean set-up there. That's the unit I started with too, and I still like it for quite a few tasks around the shop.

I use my dry wheel grinder for turning tools and the final grinding on my newly constructed plane blades and such. Not really necesarry for the latter, but it happens to have my better rests on it. My dry wheels are 8" and 1800 rpm, which may help a little at keeping the excentrifical force reasonable.

Huh??? That's a hand-cranked grinder!

Larry Williams

>At times, things go a little over the top around here.

Re: Huh??? That's a hand-cranked grinder!

thomd

>There was a motor body grinder like maybe a Delta in one of those pictures, Larry. No gards of any kind. It's not the pillow block one at the top of the thread.