Est. 1998 — 27 years of woodworking knowledge
Using an angle guide
Greg Bailey
>I have a question regarding the use of a simple angle guide. I bought a guide about the size of a silver dollar and it has cuts in it of different angles for seeing the angle of attack on blade sharpening. The cuts have two angles in them. One is a large opening and at the bottom, there is a small angle. I am guessing that the large angle is for the flat and the small for the bevel. Is this correct?
Re: Using an angle guide
Ed Mulligan, Cape Cod
>Greg -
On mine there is a small circular hole at the apex. This provides a space so the tool edge does not touch the metal angle guide. I've not seen one like you describe.
Ed
Re: Using an angle guide
Greg Bailey
>Ed, I am guessing at the small hole. You're probably right. I used the guide today and figured out that my angles were all off on my tools and thus they wouldn't bite the wood. I corrected the angle and finally got a sharp edge on three of my tools. This sharpening has been a real bear for me.
Re: Using an angle guide
Ed Mulligan, Cape Cod
>Glad it's working out for you. FWIW for chisels I grind at 25 degrees and then put on a 27* secondary bevel for general work, 30* for chopping dovetails etc. For paring I like to leave it at 25*, i.e. no secondary bevel. I use a 7" dry wheel grinder and the original Lee Valley honing guide.
Ed
Re: Using an angle guide
Greg Bailey
>John demonstrated to me that if one holds onto the gouge or chisel in the same place, never moving your hand out of position, you can lay your hand back on the tool support and never lose the angle. He does his sharpening without a guide or jig. My flats are not that great looking so far, but I think with practice, I'll get it. I bought some old beat up gouges and chisels from e-bay just to practice with. Better to damage them than my tools I've had for years.
John also talked about the angle as you have and he agrees with you on using the 25 degree, and the larger degrees for tool and mallet work. He goes very slow at it, touching and feeling for heat build up and looking for the wire edge to form. I learned a lot from him. I purchased a 120 grit wheel and a leather stroping wheel, so I hope that will improve my accuracy in obtaining the edge. That one spoon gouge I had would not cut a curl. I looked at it a little closer and saw that it had some chips out of the edge. I used a buffing wheel to turn them out and then used the slip stone to take the burr off. Now, it makes a curl every time. Nothing beats a sharp edge.