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Need diagram for brace chuck

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Need diagram for brace chuck

#1

Need diagram for brace chuck

Chuck Nickerson

>I've managed to pick up a used high-end brace. However the chuck isn't as free-moving as it should be. Before I take apart this spring-loaded gizmo, I'd love to have access to an exploded diagram. Then I'll at least have a chance to get it back together. The brace is the nice Bell System one: 2110?

Re: Need diagram for brace chuck

#2

I'm to lazy but...

Scott Burr in Ben Lomond, CA

>Somebody out there has a web page deadacated to rebuiliding your new found beast. Google should find the answer for you young one...

Re: Need diagram for brace chuck

#3

Re: Need diagram for brace chuck

Joe Rogers, Northern Virginia

>Georges Basment at

www.georgesbasement.com/index.html

will give you some help. The page is "taking apart the mysterious stanley..."The primary thrust of the page is rehabbing the ratchet mechanisim. Don't remember if the chuck is mentioned.JR

Re: Need diagram for brace chuck

#4

Re: Need diagram for brace chuck

Philip Duffy

>Try soaking it first, or just spraying it with a degreaser/parts cleaner. Some of the gun cleaning products have worked wonders for me in the past. Phil

Re: Need diagram for brace chuck

#5

Re: Need diagram for brace chuck

Todd O. Cronkhite Maine Native, Presently Away

>Chuck,

There's nothing to the brace chucks. I've freed up a good many of them using electrolysis, than once freed up took them apart to clean the inards. Usually all you'll find is two jows with a little spring hilding them together. This is not the type of coil spring that is going to go BOING!!!! and fly away on you. I will admit to never having taken apart a 2110, but can imagine they'd be any different.

Am I to understand that it is frozen solid?

Make friends with electrolysis. Just don't use it on saws as it leaves them a dead, dull gray color, and I think that hydrogen embrittlement is a bunch of hooey, but even if it isn't from what understand it'll all re-stabalize if you leave it in sunlight. I've zapped many a tool and never encountered a problem with hydrogen embrittlement.

Probably this weekend I'll be zapping a big blacksmiths post vise that my buddy found and bought for $20 at the flea market this weekend for me when he scored that flat bottomed handled saw. It is frozen with rust, and to top it off it has sometype of metal piece between the jaws. Probably the last thing the old guy was working on when he dropeed dead in his shop, and there the shop set unused for years, and years, and years. I'll post before and after pics when I'm thru with it.

Todd O.

Re: Need diagram for brace chuck

#6

Re: Need diagram for brace chuck

David Charters (Durham, NC)

>Another option is to use citric acid to take rust off. I was looking into electrolysis, and I know it is used safely by many. To me, the idea of electrolysis is about as intuitive as plugging in a toaster and throwing it in the bath tub. I bought a heap of citric acid (powder) off the web for cheap. It is very safe, and really does the trick. I have been rehabing a rusty old bicycle for my sweetie, and every piece has had a turn in the bath. It's rust free!

Re: Need diagram for brace chuck

#7

Re: Need diagram for brace chuck

Todd O. Cronkhite Maine Native, Presently Away

>I remember the citric acid bath idea, but forgot the particulars of it. would you give us a reminder?

If one was to decide to use electrolysis ensure to use ARM AND HAMMER WASHING SODA instead of the lye that might be recommended.

Look for the washing Soda in the laundry detergent section of your supermarket as it is a whitener. The only place I could ever find it was in a Publix supermarket, tho I'm sure other markets carry it as well.

T.O.

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