shooting board question

Re: shooting board question

Derek Cohen (in Perth, Australia)

>Hi Bob

The fence on my shooting board has a the ability to be adjusted very slightly, which means that I can set it for a perfectly square edge after a little trial-and-error (I did this after years of frustration when the fence I had carefully build just did not plane as was planned).

All it is is a wingnut on an oversized hole at the further end. Here is a picture (the top is the original set up, the lower is the modification):

When trimming an end (end grain), I place the "higher" side closest to myself. By doing this the wood is always backed and so will not brake out.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Re: shooting board question

thomd

>I like the high end to be the first part engaged so that it doesn't just snap off with a big chip. Of course you could pre-incise it square so that no chip forms.

As far as getting the fence square I start out with square stock and then align it with a reliable square, and glue it all down. There is a simple technique for precise glueing that sound like what we all do but isn't. You line everything up then apply about 1/5th pressure on the clamps, let it sit for a short period, this provides time for the hydrolic cussion to dissipate. Check it is still square and then clamp down for good. many of us will check to see if the clamps loosened after the initial crush, but that isn't the same process, since it is concerned with loss of clamp pressure not how to stop the peice skating around.

Since a shooting board probably ends up cutting pieces of a certain minimum length, if that is long enough to handle all you needs, you could consider a tape shim to bring things square. Not good if half your pieces are so long they can't be controlled against the shim, and the others are all too short. But sometimes it's the easiest solution.

Re: shooting board question

paul womack

>When trimming an end (end grain), I place the "higher" side closest to myself. By doing this the wood is always backed and so will not brake out.

If you're prepared to trust that your workpiece is accurately parallel, this is a workable approach.

However classic "best practice" would always place the face edge against the fence. If this happens to be the "high" edge, simple use a chisel to make a flattish chamfer (from the knifed line) to prevent break out (spelching).

BugBear

Re: shooting board question

Paul Kierstead

>Rob Cosman (love him or hate him) shows a good technique for the chamfer in one of his videos (*) where you flip the board over, angle it against the fence and use the plane to make a quick chamfer. Saves reaching for the chisel.

(*) Note I am not saying he invented it, just where I saw it.

getting the fence square

Ian (in Sydney, Australia)

>David Charlesworth in one of his DVD's suggests that if the fence is not quite square, using a shim (maybe a piece of paper) between the work piece and the fence is all you do to get an exact square

ian

Re: nice - thanks

paul womack

>

Re: shooting board question *LINK*

Norman (Metcalfe, Ont.)

>Bob,

Interesing question.

If the face edges are truly parallel, I like to have the high side facing me. Reason for this is that the low side is fully against the backer board and less tearout might result. When I do this I pull the board back a little for better registration of the plane sole.I take very light cuts until the end of the board is fairly equal on both sides but not quite perpendicular to the face edges yet. Then I slide the board back out a little so the complete end is exposed to the sole of the plane.

One of those techniques that is easier to demonstrate than describe.

The fence does need to be perfectly square however, or you'll always end up with a slightly higher side :(

Norman


Shooting Board

Checking for square

Neal in San Jose

>Here's a trick to make sure your fence is square. Use a long board that is perfectly parallel on the long sides, wider is better. Mark one side so you can keep track. Cut the board in half, and joint both edges of the cut. Now, here's the trick. Stand the board halves on edge with the marked face toward you. The two jointed edges should meet perfectly. NOW, flip ONE of the halves over with the jointed edges meeting. Any error will show up as a "V" shaped opening between the halves. This error will be twice the amount your fence is off.

This will also work for checking the miter square on your table saw, or any other place where you want to check for dead-on square.

Great Link

Jim Shaver Oakville, Ont.

>Thanks Norm,

This is a great link, I really was looking for something like this...I have an all had tool project on the go right now, this is perfect timing for me!

Take care,

Jim

Re: Checking for square

David Charlesworth

>The link is very close to the aids shown on my DVD.

Paper or wet & dry shims work very well if your fence is a fraction off, not glued just positioned for each job. They can be used in vertical or horizontal plane, ie to compensate for out of square plane sides! which are common on old Stanleys and Records.

I do not like to glue runway or cleat as it is easy to take a sliver off the long edges on the table saw if your fence gets worn by plane tipping. Table saw keeps edges nice and parallel.

When mitring ends of box linings or small frames and mouldings, it is very beneficial to use left side of board as well, as these components have mirror image ends joining at one corner. So my ramp is double ended.

Best wishes,

David Charlesworth

Re: You're welcome Jim..

Norman (Ottawa, Ont.)

>

Re: shooting board question

stephen wiseman

>As Ian suggested, David Charlesworth's DVD "Hand Tool Techniques Part 3: Precision Shooting Simplified" and DC's book "Furniture-Making Techniques: Volume Two " page 16 demistifies and simplifies shooting virtually everything and I cannot recommend it enough. I know DC also posted help for you but perhaps didn't want to appear to be a self promoter so I will do that for him with the sole intensions of turning you on to some great material on many other mysteries (at least to me!) as well. Also, there is a link to a plan for Mr. Charlesworth's very simple shooting board and other shooting aids if you go to Lie-Nielsen's web site and look at the instructions for the "No. 9" Iron Miter or Mitre Plane found in the block plane section:

http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=6251

His three books and four DVD's are available from LN and many other quality woodworking suppliers (book three may only be available from his website at the moment...not sure?).

Hope this helps,

Stephen