Saw Sharpening question

Re: Saw Sharpening question

mikew

>Hi Tim,

Both are symptoms of set being off or inconsistent.

Perferably use a stone [not a waterstone] or a diamond plate to remove set, running it from the heel to the toe on the side it veers towards.

As for the ragged cut, the lesser the pitch, the more you will see some score marks left behind. But it can also be indicative of some teeth being set more wide than those around them.

First, remove some of the set by stoning. Once the saw is tracking straight, then you can worry about making it smoother. This would be done by stoning both sides with equal pressure and number of strokes.

Ideally, a well set saw does not need to be stoned and is a goal to work towards as you gain experience.

Take care, Mike

Re: Saw Sharpening question

Warren in Lancaster, PA

>I know a lot of people blame the set when a saw pulls to the side, but I think that with a beginner sharpening it is just as likely that the teeth are a little longer on one side.

If it is a crosscut saw, hold the saw pointing toward your face with the teeth up and the handle away and look down the rows of teeth. You should see a neat v-shaped valley betweeen the rows of teeth. If the teeth are longer on one side for part or all of the way, that valley will be off to one side or wander or be hard to spot altogether.

If it is a rip saw, you can put a straightedge up against the teeth or joint lightly to discover if the teeth are even. If you sharpen all the teeth from one side, the teeth leaning away from you will cut more smoothly and may be shorter for the same number of strokes, or the burr from the file being all on one side may affect the cutting.