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Shaving horse designs

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Shaving horse designs

#1

Shaving horse designs

Dave Thompson

>I saw in this months PW, Chris was talking about the new Boggs design shaving horse made and distributed by LN. As of yesterday, I see LN now has pictures of it on their website.




I've had on my todo list for a while now to make one of these. I've mused with doing it a Roy Underhill style and also thought about getting the LV plans. This spring I cut up and set aside some ash which is drying out now intended just for this purpose.

The main difference between the LV and Boggs I see beyond aesthetics and ergonomic seat, is the size adjustment mechanism. The LV plans have a nice simple slide a block forward adjustment, while the Boggs has a ratchet type. There's also the leather gripper on the Boggs, which I think is the first time I've seen that.

I'd love to hear your opinions, prejudices and general inclinations, before I start finalizing a design.

Thanks,

Dave

Re: Shaving horse designs

#2

Re: Shaving horse designs

thomd

>I'm working on my third right now. I made as close to a Boggs one as I could back about 8 years ago. After that some partial plans for a boggs came out in a Master Class in FWW. According to something I saw LN was going to offer plans for the Boggs as well as selling it in finished form. Country Workshops plans are good, and amount to a somewhat more rustic boggs. I'm talking about their plans that look like a Boggs, and that one pays for. I also made a dumbhead model.

I think you want to look at a couple of basic points first:

1) What kind of things do you want to make? Chairs ar mostly short parts and they require a lot of end for end turning since one is trying to work the whole part for length, but has to do it by sequentially regriping the workpiece from the end. Probably the type of horse you have shown here with the closed jaw is better; even pressure across a wide area. I think for this kind of work the boggs is the best. Best adjustments posture, and comfort. Boggs is something new, a guy doing a country craft on a production basis, not entirely new, but a lot of the horses one sees around really don't come up to a full time worker's level. This style is also the style you might want for stuff like shingles.

2) The dumbhead style that has a jaw open to the side is better for rakes, bows, paddles long objects you don't wnat to thread through a hoop. This style is nearly as good for chairs so it might be a better overall cassual style, or for people who only do the long stuff like bowyers. I really like my Langsner dumbhead. I posted a picture of it around September in a "World's ugliest" post. Part of the charm of a Dumbhead is that you can use all kinds of weird things for the head. But if all one has is some Lumber the Langsner version is pretty good. He has published the plans in a number of books including his chair book.

3) There are some tasks where an object is only worked from one end that are better done without a shaving horse, though the option may tempt. Examples are the long spindles in windsors, or bows. Some workers feel these are much better held in vises. Just a thought in the even this kind of thing is all you want to do.

The other main thought is where do you want to keep it. I like mine out of doors, but the Boggs is fine furniture. I like the rustic style, say like an Langsner, Some paint or semi shelter and it can live out of doors. So depending on that, you might want to go one way or another.

The leather is a good idea if you use some cabinet grade hardwood like maple and add a finish - too slipery otherwise. If you use softwood, or less slipery wood, another option for working wet wood is to put osme water on the jaw, that will also hold the workpiecee, as per John Alexander (good online SH plans).

Re: Shaving horse designs

#3

After seeing teh video...

Scott Burr in Ben Lomond, CA

>I my self am leaning toward a ratchet myself, besides the "cool" factor I think it would be a better set up IMHO. $650! Ouch, that's a lot Doug fir or a lot of other nice woods...

Re: Shaving horse designs

#4

Re: Shaving horse designs

Greg B�tit Crown Point NY

>I think that your stated advantage of a dumhead horse with its open sides making it easy to swap ends on longer pieces is just as appropriate for shorter parts like rungs and spindles.

I have made a few shaving horses, but only one with the head configured like Boggs' & it didn't have a nifty height changing ratchet mechanism. I think I'd like to work on a Boggs one for a while to see if this advantage doesn't overcome the inconvience of having to pull the workpiece out each time you wanted to work on the other end.

Another demonstrated advantage of the Boggs is the short front- you can work on curved pieces more easily.

greg

Re: Shaving horse designs

#5

Shaving horse design links

Dave Thompson

>Thanks for taking the time for the comments Thom. I've found them helpful, and they encouraged me to do a little more looking around. I found a few of the references and some additional designs, and am including them here in case this of interest to others.

I see Langsner's Country workshop plans has a "shaving mule" which looks very similar in design to the Boggs/LN.


Though as you and Greg imply, this style may be prefered for chair making (small spindle), but an open head may be more versatile. Versatile sounds attrative to me as I haven't taken up draw shave chair making.


Re: Shaving horse designs

#6

One vote for underhill

Adam Cherubini, NJ

>I really REALLY enjoyed making an Underhill style horse. It was a great way to spend a leisurely weekend. And the horse is great- its a dumb head style. The seat is comfortable (not a flat board) and the rough hewn gripping faces and seat help prevent slipping- I think its a big advantage. When you push on the treadle thingy, you don't want to slip off the back of the horse. The force you can apply is thus limited by the friction at your seat.

On the other hand, there were a few specialty tools required. Just so happens, I had those tools from my workbench building days and they were all razor sharp (like my ship augers, axes, adz, framing chisels, etc. I even had a wagon wheel reamer to taper the leg holes. If you don't have any of these and don't want to buy them, I think I'd lean to construction lumber type designs. I suspect this job wouldn't have been fun if I didn't have those tools.

Adam

Re: Shaving horse designs

#7

Steve Kubien

Re: Shaving horse designs

Steve Kubien

>I have been leaning toward the LV version for 2 reasons... I like that I can build a fold-able version and store it (the option is included with the plan) and I like the provision of a large flat working surface for things other than sitting. Ok, 3 reasons...I've already bought the plans and I'm looking for a round tuit.

My humble thoughts but I'd like to see Roy's version in action.

Steve Kubien

Re: Shaving horse designs

#8

Re: One vote for underhill

thomd

>When I made the one in the thread back in September, I didn't have the reamer either, but I built it from plans off John Alexander's site, and it worked great.

Steve, the only problem with some of the plans is they often specify wood that is pretty fragile (elegant) looking. Also, if you build the Boggs style one guess who has plans? And it knocks down also.

Re: Shaving horse designs

#9

Here you go

Dan Donaldson

>Here is a round tuit ;-)


img

Re: Shaving horse designs

#10

Re: Shaving horse designs

Ron

>I had an opportunity to use the LV design this summer and it has a few shortcomings that you would have to address before I could consider it useful.

1. The gripping power in minimal without wrapping some sort of rubber or sandpaper around the head holding the work.

2. Your butt slides on the seat which doesn't help problem no. 1

It got to the point where I went to using a bench vise instead of the shaving horse.

About a month ago I had a chance to try a rustic (Real) version. It looked crudely made but worked much better. An example of where slick and smooth is not necessarily better.

The LV could be made to work ok and I have the plans but I think I'm going to look around some more before deciding on which I will build.

Re: Shaving horse designs

#11

Steve Kubien

Re: Here you go

Steve Kubien

>Not quite what I had in mind but I like it all the same. Thanks Dan.

Steve Kubien

Re: Shaving horse designs

#12

Re: Shaving horse designs

Paul Londo

>I designed my bench to be portable , 3 legs , I used metal stake pocket brackets to hold them. My bench is bodgers style but instead having the inclined plane I built it square and flat and have holes drilled into the top so I can use a holdfast to hold the dough bowls and yokes that I build on this bench.

Re: Shaving horse designs

#13

Thanks

Dave Thompson

>Thanks for taking the time to reply. I appreciate the input.

Dave

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