Est. 1998 — 27 years of woodworking knowledge
Is there a plane
Phil Joines Krum, TX
>for cleaning the bottom of sliding dovetails? I'm thinking of using a saw to cut most of the sides and mortise chisles to clear the waist but how about getting a nice, flat surface on the bottom? I can use a router but that takes all the fun out :>)
Re: Is there a plane
Neal in San Jose
>Yep, use a router. An "Old woman's tooth" or a Stanley 71 or equivalent. They work great, altho, they need to be very sharp, and set to only take light shavings and sneak up on your final depth. Don't try to hog out great quantities. Do the heavy lifting with a chisel after sawing.
Router plane
Jack Guzman from Maine
>A router plane such as a stanley 71 does this job nicely. ---Jack
maybe smaller #271, depending DT size
Dave Thompson
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Speaking of router planes...?
Tony - Memphis
>I have a nice little 271 I bought. I sharpend it up real good. Got it just right. Then, I realized when I put it back in and tightened the thumb screw that the cutting edge is no longer parallel to the bottom of the plane. Any tips on this one?
Thanks,
Tony
Re: Is there a plane
thomd
>The spearpoint will hog out quite a piece of wood, though the idea of blowing the worst of it out with a chisel is sound.
271 tuning
Ed Mulligan, Cape Cod
>Tony -
To get the edge in plane with the base, set the iron so it projects just a tiny amount and then rub the base and iron on a piece of fine sandpaper. A bevel will develop on the iron 'back'. Project the iron more and rub again, continuing until the bevel touches the entire length of the iron edge.
The bevel you just made needs to be removed by grinding on the regular bevel. When the back bevel is gone, your iron will cut parallel to the base.
It's a fussy, tedious procedure, and you have to be careful when resharpening that you don't alter the relative position of the edge.
Ed
Re: 271 tuning
Mike Hamilton
>Don't you need at least a small clearance angle (like other planes)? None of my 71 blades are parallel to the sole (Stanley and LV blades).
Regards,
Mike Hamilton
Plainfield, IN
Yes indeed ...
Ed Mulligan, Cape Cod
>... a clearance angle is needed. It's built into the iron. In my post above I was trying to describe how to get the edge, not the 'back', parallel to the base. Sorry if I've confused you.
Ed
Re: Speaking of router planes...?
Marc in Luxembourg
>Hi Tony,
It is the same with the block planes with no lateral adjuster. The blade too much tightened when adjusting the depth and it will slide. A little tap on the upper end of the blade with a small, well very small hammer will help.
Regards, Marc
A shim opposite the thumb screw?
Pam Niedermayer - Austin, TX
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Re: Is there a plane *LINK*
Pam Niedermayer - Austin, TX
>Yes, there is, as all have said. I'd like to add that if I were buying a 71 type router plane today I'd buy the LV version, no questions asked. I wish I hadn't bought that new Stanley 3 or 4 years ago, just so I could buy the LV.
Re: Is there a plane
Denis Ch�nard, Orl�ans, Ont.
>I've given the LV little use so far, but it does work great. I've never used a #71, so I can't compare.
DC
A brief How To *LINK*
Derek Cohen (in Perth, Australia)
>Phil
There is a tutorial on cutting sliding dovetails in Part 2 of my review of the Veritas Router Plane (link below).
Basic procedure:
Mark then saw the shoulders to depth with a backsaw against a suitably angled guide (here it is 1:6).
Cut through the centre to make it easier to the waste.
And now remove the waste with the router plane. You are going across the grain, so use the V blade.
If you need to adjust the pin, then use a Stanley #79 (fence removed).
The tail can be shaped or trimmed with a router plane or just shaped with a backsaw and chisel.
Thanks all!
Tony - Memphis
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