Uses for Stanley 60-1/2?

Re: Uses for Stanley 60-1/2?

david charlesworth

>Bill,

I like this style of plane though not the later Stanley offerings.

Small end grain truing, with cambered blade of course. When the work is just too big to shoot and just too small to balance a regular plane on, or is already part of an assembly.

End grain decorative bevelling, used at a skew, leaves lovely polished surfaces on the bevels. (Long grain bevels prefer 09 1/2 or bench plane).

Now you come to mention it, not so many applications!

David Charlesworth

Pretty handy...

Dave Thompson

>I use this style quite often, primarily for end grain work, such as cleaning up dove tails, sizing the end of through tenons, chamfering end of through tenons, etc. I have both an LN and Stanley 60 1/2 and use them equally. I like the small size.

The adjustable mouth offers no advantage for endgrain, so if you have another preferred low angle block for end grain than I suppose this could be set aside.

With regards to long grain, it has the same features and advantages as the "BU planes" (164, 62, or 7.5). If it's redundant in your arsenal, perhaps, you can adjust the bevel and make it a small high pitch block plane. .... a more comfortable to hold than a #1, York pitch smoother. ;-)

If you do some late night wood work on end grain, there is a chance on the back stroke the plane gets caught on the end of your work, launching it out of your hand onto your shop floor. A cement floor might just ding up your plane pretty good and a spare might be handy. Sound like I'm relating a personal experience? ;-) My LN60.5 was only six months old when I dinged up the adjustable mouth.... the horror. These days, my shop floor is wood. Hmmm.... I wonder if wrist strap bungee cord tethers is a patentable idea? ;-)

enjoy,

Dave

On second thought.. forehead biopsy

Dave Thompson

>Ok, bad idea. Images of a reactive tug make me think of all sorts of facial biopsies and bruises. I suppose an adjustable mouth set small might help limit how much of an ear gets planed.

Hmmm...a possibly worthwhile argument/excuse

Bill Houghton, retired fun in Sebastopol, CA

>Having a spare, that is - the bungee cord tether, not so sure.

Though shingling hatchet handles used to come with a hole in the back for a leather-bootlace loop that went around your wrist, to keep the hatchet from launching itself into space off the eaves if you let go wrong, so a non-bungee tether might work well. I was quite disappointed a few years ago when I got a handle for the pristine hatchet head I'd picked up at a garage sale to find that they've dropped this nifty feature (bad enough I had to get it on special order...seems no one uses the hatchets much anymore, now that there are air staplers).

Re: Hmmm...a possibly worthwhile argument/excuse

Todd O. Cronkhite Maine Native, Presently Away

>.......wrist strap bungee cord tethers

Hmmmmmmmm perhaps this explains the hole that some bozo drilled in the heel of my 5 1/4. ;~)

As I mentioned a few months ago, I covered my garag, er, er, shop floor with plywood, and since then I know it has saved several tools from injury. Seems I'm suffering more more and more from the dropsies. As an added benefit the floor is much more comfortable to walk on, and is a bit warmer than the bare cement floor. Well worth the Time and Money I put into doing this and I'd recommend any one with a cement floor to do it as well. The only problem I've come across with it is that in a few places where the plywood sheets butt together a small trip hazard was created, but a few staples too care of that for the most part. Also, I caulked all the seams of the sheets mostly to help avoid getting sawdust down under the plywood. By painting the plywood white it also brightened up my shop a bit, and when it gets too dirty I'll just paint it again.

Todd O.

T&G plywood

Bill Houghton, retired fun in Sebastopol, CA

>Todd,

I don't know what thickness you used, but they used to sell tongue and groove ply in 3/4" and up for subflooring. That would reduce the trip hazards. Too late now, I guess.

Re: T&G plywood

Glenn Madsen near San Francisco

>I bought a bunch at 1 1/8" or so a couple of summers ago, when I needed to redo the subfloor in the front part of the house. The local contractors yard had some, as did the Orange BORG.

Redoing the floor in the shop seems a decent activity. I'll put it on 'the list'. Should be done around 2017...

Re: T&G plywood

Todd O. Cronkhite Maine Native, Presently Away

>I used 19/32 sheeting. Why? I wanted to do this project while I was still on vacation and it was the cheapest stuff I could find at the Borg. As it was I had spent much more money that month than I had expected too while doing projects around the house. Fiqured if it wasn't adequate enough I could alays lay another layer later. The T&G is definately a good idea. Wish I had thunk of that. Ahhhhhhhhhh the battle of unforseen problems never ends eh? ;~)

T.O.

Re: T&G plywood

Jack Guzman from Maine

>Todd,

When I did my concrete floor I used t&g but the stuff still moved.It would separate at the seams so I had to periodically pry it back together at the room edges. Finally I tore it all up and laid down cheap 1x4 spruce strapping at 16" on center and screwed the plywood to it.Fixed.Now the floor is one piece.It was a cheap but labor intensive fix. ---Jack

Re: T&G plywood

Todd O. Cronkhite Maine Native, Presently Away

>Jack,

Don't you get a bit of sag between the strips, which would make for a wavy floor?

T.O.

Re: T&G plywood

Ernie Miller

>Probably a little more expensive but I used horse stall mats from the local farm store. 4'X7'X1" thick shredded tires that are made into a fatigue mat about $30 each I think I still need 2 more to have the entire shop wall to wall. it is definatly worth the $ in my book. Just enought giv for the feet and I can still roll heavy stuff acrost it. I would like to put some hard wood floor over it some day but not soon.