Small cross cut hand saw - recommendations?

Re: Thanks for the Pizza knowledge, but...

Ernie Miller


>I e-mailed you. But do a searc vor Vlad I think he makes good back saws he is in Canada. I think there may also be another couple people who also make them. Norseman? somebodya does some nice looking stuff also. DO a search of this site for back saw and you will find several people.

$1,000 ? *LINK*

Todd Hughes


>There are more then a few guys making new swage blocks, here is a nice small one that recently sold on the ebay for less then $200. Sounds like he might have more. I've been to blacksmithing events and have bought nice small [30-40lb] ones for around $75. I have a large new made one like they sell in centaur forge catalog that i bought off the guy that was casting them, [Wally Yater] years ago. He also made cone mandrils.

In my experance original swage blocks are a very uncommon tool to find anymore , I have had a few over the years but all but one were very large and probably not really to well suited to what most blacksmiths would want today rather made more for wagon or ship work. As a user much more better off with a new made one unless you get very lucky and find an old one with the shapes you want.

I know there is a tradition of the blacksmith making there own tools but in my opinon most time doesn't make to much sence. I used to go to an even where a 'smith always demostrated how to make a pair of tongs. Took him well over an hour and all the wannabes sat there taking notes on how to do it. Had to smile because they could have stepped outside and bought a nicer old pair off me for $5-$10 ....Todd


Ebay Swage Block

Re: Small cross cut hand saw - recommendations?

Tony - Memphis


>Hi Joe. I've just been getting interested in getting a few saws too. My main interest was for dovetailing, but I also wanted a large crosscut for rough cutting long lumber. But in my search, I got interested in having a couple of other old saws just cause I wanted them. My lovely wife gave me a LN dovetail saw (which is rip) and it is a wonderful saw. Expensive, yes, but sweet. I have also bought a couple of saws on ebay and had great luck with those. Now, I want to learn how to sharpen them. Anyway, try ebay. One of our forum members sells over there and I have always been happy with my purchases from him. I have bought from a couple of other folks with good ratings and had equally good luck. I have let a lot of saws go becaus ethey went higher than I wanted, so be patient. I just got a Disston tenon saw that is really nice. Looks like crap, but is a nice saw. From what I can tell, its not real hard to file a rip to crosscut, so you might consider that route too. I just bought Tom Law's video on saw sharpening and that was pretty inspiring. Tools for Working Wood has all the files and sawsets you need. You can make a clamp. Anyway, good luck with finding the right saw. Sometimes, when you find one that feels good in your hand, you make it cut how you want just because it feels right!

Tony

Re: Small cross cut hand saw - recommendations?

Adam Cherubini


>I don�t think there is a decent quality low priced new western saw. I think your only choice is to refurb an old saw (or pay someone to do it for you), or buy a $100+ new saw from a boutique saw maker. My advice is to scrounge the money for a boutique saw from a maker who truly understands hand work and hand saws. Clearly not all makers do. Given the choice between a refurbed saw and a new one (their prices may be closer than you might initially think), I�d lean toward the new saw. Here�s why: Disston seemed to make saws not for cabinetmakers, but for industrial users and carpenters. Take his line of back saws. They typically have blade thicknesses easily one full gauge thicker than their 18th c counterparts. You�d think it�d be the other way around. The difference is by no means insignificant. Kenyon�s 19� tenon saw had a .025� blade. Disston�s shorter back saws were typically over .030�. Kenyon�s carcass and dovetail saws were .015�. I don�t think Disston ever made a saw that thin. By purchasing a saw from a knowledgeable maker, you can start with a blade shape and size that is appropriate for your work rather than starting with something readily available but �unoptimized�.

In your examples of what you need your saw for: bring a drawer side down to correct length, tenon cheeks small crosscuts where I want a clean cut, cutting the horns off of stiles on a door once assembled for example. it seems you may benefit from some technique pointers. If you want a really straight, square cut, you�ve got two choices; Lay the saw flat on the board and saw down. In 20 years you�ll be able to do this fine. Muscle memory is amazing. Any saw will work including and especially a back saw. Or you can saw the corners out. This technique requires presenting the saw at a pretty high angle- maybe 45 degrees. Its nice because you will quickly learn to saw straight for any and every sort of cut. The disadvantage is, depending on the width of the stock, you may not be able to use a back saw. So specifically, cutting the drawers, sawing off the horns, is really easiest accomplished with a panel saw. The back saw is helpful where the depth of the kerf is insufficient to guide the saw. In the saw the corners out technique, you knick a corner and use that kerf to guide that end of the saw while you watch the other. You can go back and forth- holding one end of the kerf while advancing on the other.

So you are going to need two x-cut saws. I see no way around it. I think you should start with the panel saw, especially if anything I wrote in the paragraph above is new to you. This is a lesson worth learning. If you are already hip to that and can saw like a champ, then buy whichever.

I don�t wish to review saw makers� products. All I�m willing to say is this: Some of the makers concentrate on copies of saws that were themselves not particularly great. All I�ve seen are beautifully made and function well. But don�t assume the saw maker knows what you need. If you read my article on saw teeth, I have some pretty specific advice in there that may help you.

I'm sorry I don't have a better answer for you. I think you eoither hae to become a hand saw refurbing expert, or shell out that cash. Either way, you need to educate yourself as much as you can on how hand saws work. I've written a couple articles on the subject that are probably in your public library. Chris Schwarz has done some reviews and has some info on his blog page about his experiences.

Adam