Need a design for a shop made saw set

Re: Need a design for a shop made saw set

thomd


>Well... The japanese use a narrow hammer, and a block of steel like a small anvil (often shaped from a railroad tie, but frankly it could probably be made from endgrain epoxy saturated, any metal, etc..). You just angle the edge off at the angle you want, hold the edge of the saw over it, and tap every other tooth, then flip and do the other edge. The good thing about this sytem is that you have total control over everything. Now if you want to have a fence for the back of the blade, and a litle lever attached to a cam, a pawl, you could make it so a chimp could execute it. Look at a chainsaw sharperner to get an idea of how they handle the indexing if you want to go that route.

Re: Need a design for a shop made saw set

Joel


>Why don't you just get a sawset made for fine teeth. We stock them - so does everyone else. And they are pretty inexpensive.

Re: Need a design for a shop made saw set

mikew


>Hi Roy, As Joel mentioned, get the blue one from him. In fact, get both if you want similar feel when doing saws with fewer PPI. The difference in them is the size of the strike pin.

One cannot beat the price, and they work well. Do note the numbers on the anvil are relative index numbers for repeatability, not PPI settings.

Take care, Mike

Re: Need a design for a shop made saw set

Ernie Miller


>I'm with Joel on this one also if all else fails you can file the anvil on the one you have, that is what I did but it is more work than it is worth. unless your time is only worth about 25� an hour. I am all for making tools but this isn't one of them.

Thanks Mike!

Marc in Luxembourg


>Thanks alot Mike, exactly the numbering caused me trouble for some time.

Regards, Marc