Est. 1998 — 27 years of woodworking knowledge
New questions about the Tucker 2
Dirk Vogel
>Now let's see the same thing from below. As you may know, the Tucker needs two clearouts (concerning bench aprons) : one for its guide rods (in my drawing D 1 and D 2), and one for something Veritas call stanchion (here C). E is the piece of wood that gives the right distance for the Tucker to flush.
New questions about the Tucker 3
Dirk Vogel
>The stanchion (I hope you understand this word, because I don't) has four vises, and two of them would be where you can see the white holes in C.
New questions about the Tucker 4
Dirk Vogel
>Controlling where exactly those two vises would enter, I discovered, to my great displeasure, that they'd have to be where I already planned to have my tool tray !
New questions about the Tucker 5
Dirk Vogel
>So I decided, after several thoughts about changing the placement for my central tool tray, to do something entirely different : I would create a singularity in my very regular benchtop structure. :-)
New questions about the Tucker 6
Dirk Vogel
>Seen from below, it would be like this :
New questions about the Tucker 7
Dirk Vogel
>This means : I prolonged the bench apron next to the tool tray (F) into the tool tray, as a semicircle. This way, the stanchion vises are going to stick in the apron.
Do you think this is a good idea ?
New questions about the tail vise 1
Dirk Vogel
>Now to my tail vise. There also was a problem to be resolved. First look at its mechanism :
New questions about the tail vise 2
Dirk Vogel
>K 1 and K 2 glide in R 1 and R 2.
New questions about the tail vise 3
Dirk Vogel
>Now look at the end cap. Its part P should be in the tail vise. Q is the part supposed to stop L and N, with M sliding behind Q.
New questions about the tail vise 4
Dirk Vogel
>And that's the problem ! All those nice constuctions as the Nyquist tail vise, or the one of M. Fortune (see Landis), work because there's metal involved, or because you can at least screw them together while they're in place. My tail vise should instead be glued together and still I want it in a knock down-version, for eventual repairs.
In my case, Q cannot be a piece of the endcap, or else it's not possible to insert the tail vise laterally into the benchtop : there'd be a collision between Q and M, and I fear that K 1 and K 2 can't properly get into R 1 and R 2 if I hold the vise a bit inclined to avoit tha collision. Look at the mechanism of the opened tail vise, you'll understand :
New questions about the tail vise 5
Dirk Vogel
>So my solution to this problem is to detach Q from the end cap, making an extra piece of wood I'll screw to the bench top after putting the tail vise on its place.
New questions about the tail vise 6
Dirk Vogel
>This is the way the tail vise is supposed to move. T is holding M.
New questions about the tail vise 7
Dirk Vogel
>Here you see the tail vise open. Do you think this is going to work ?
Re: trestle measurements *LINK*
Paul M. in San Diego
>Hi Dirk,
I did something like this on my bench. I *needed* to do this because I was only using 4" stretchers due to my desire for a tool-box under the bench. You can see the extra material added to the upper stretchers to make the shoulders on the end tenons long enough to minimize racking.
You will not need this with a wide stretcher as you show. This will be plenty of shoulder to prevent your bench from dancing on a heavy planing session.
-- Paul M.
My bench
Re: Workbench construction � open questions
Ernie Miller
>are you doing this in sketchup? looks good from here.
Re: Thanks for your comments � explanations 2
thomd
>I don't know about your Klauzs bench, but my Klauzs bench (base) has the wedges. OK you got me there, see the picture.
Re: Thanks for your comments � explanations 2
thomd
>Just in case there are any suspicious types out there; that cord is the ground for my TIG welder.
trestle + cross beams updated
Dirk Vogel
>By the way, I finally got the tenons right :
larger strecher
Dirk Vogel
>Thanks for your link, Paul ! Anyway, the way I thought a larger strecher ist this :
sketchup
Dirk Vogel
>I'm sorry, but I don't understand what "doing this in sketchup" means. Is "sketchup" a computer program ? No, I'm using another one that's called Cinema 4D.
Re: Thanks for your comments � explanations 4
thomd
>Epoxy glue can make maters worse also. While it probably isn't necesarry in any kind of shop environment where one should be working wood, epoxy on endgrain is just like wax on wet wood, it stops a lot of the moisture exchange dead. which is a good thing. If you glue 1/16" of wood to one side of your stetcher with epoxy, there is a good chance you will get more wood movement not less because the moisture will be unevenly absorbed. The right epoxy is really hard and can reduce the chance of unsightly wood movement showing through later, but it also sometimes makes a visible glue line. Generally on my my workbenches, I have used epoxy just for hardware bonding, and white glue everywhere else. I might have used epoxy for tenons, though it isn't necesarry. Nn my most recent bench the breadboards were held on with hardware bonding. Sometimes when I do that I smear the glue over the endgrains to even things out, and it will help the moisture absorbtion on the top.
With your narrow wood, I would probably just shoulder the top and bottom, of the tenon. With two stretchers well attached to the top, that should be enough. I typically start with 7/8" wood, but on my dinning table the cheek is 5mm. Typically it's 6 MM cheeks, 6mm wedge, and 1mm slop. You could scab on cheeks so that your tenon would have support all around the shoulder. I thnk your curved design with all the crossgrain would have to have curved grain or a lot shallower angle.
http://www.americanfurnituredsgn.com/calico_table.htm. If you can find any info on his trestle work he has some very interesting options.
Re: Thanks for your comments � explanations 5
thomd
>Same with me. I want to be able to knock it down. On the occasions when I have moved it, so far it has turned out to be easier to just cart the whole bench(s) in one piece, or the base in one piece. But the option is important.
I could see 2/3rd in the top and 1/3rd in the base. I could see how having a base twice as heavy would help. I could see how added storage might get the weight up. I have never seen the 2/3rd base weight distribution in a raw design. I like that Ulmia design where the whole tool till tilts. That could end up heavy.
Re: Short grain
thomd
strechers
Dirk Vogel
>Hi Thom ! Thanks for your characterization of epoxy glue. I'll think about that. If I'm going to use it, it'll be between 1 1/4" planks anyway ...
"With your narrow wood, I would probably just shoulder the top and bottom, of the tenon. With two stretchers well attached to the top, that should be enough."
Attention ! First, I have no longitudinal strechers near the top, only the two in the middle of the trestle. And second, my cross beam strechers on the trestle's top won't be attached to the bench top ! That's why I had my question about the splines.
Weight ratio
Dirk Vogel
>Thom, there was a misunderstanding with the ratio between bench top and trestle. What I meant was that I was told the trestle should have 2/3 of the weight of the bench top, not of the global bench weight. So 390 pounds of benchtop weight should stand on a 260 pound trestle.