Tool Detectives, Your Mission...

Guess every ones to scared...

Scott Burr in Ben Lomond CA


>to accept the mission. I would, but I don't have a clue regarding vener saws.

Sorry.

Veneer saws

Warren in Lancaster, PA


>I have used bandsaw blades for my turning saw, but not for my veneer saw. For my veneer saw, I use a blade that has three teeth per inch and is about 1 1/8 inches wide. Although I have sawn boards that are 12 and even 14 inches wide, I think the blade that I have is most efficient in boards around 6 inches wide.

I can't imagine how you think the kerf is going to get pinched. I put the board vertically in the vise (slanted leg vise) and saw across the top. It is best if you have the saw working only about 4 inches above the vise and move the board up as you saw. When you are near the bottom and there is not enough left to hold, you flip the board and saw from the other end. Your holding the already sawn part in the vise actually opens up the kerf up above when you are nearly done. When you go through the last litle bit of tissue, the saw gets squeezed and you are done.

Many years ago...

Ellis Walentine


>...I was over at Frank Klausz's shop -- the old one, before he moved to Pluckemin. He had a selection of bowsaws ranging from tiny to huge. We resawed a giant mahogany board using a bowsaw about three feet long with a blade about 2" wide and only a handful of teeth per inch, say three or four. We held the wood vertical in a shoulder vise and resawed from the end of the bench. It was surprisingly easy to saw a straight line and it didn't take long at all. As we sawed down closer to the bench each time, we would loosen the vise and raise the board up to expose more unsawn wood.

That's probably how I would do it if I were to do it again. Adam might use that big honkin' ripsaw of his. Boy, talk about an aggressive cut.

Ellis